Re: Tech : Wall Down

On 18 jul, 09:43, Ben B <benbooga...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Jul 17, 10:31 pm, Matty-t <mspy...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:





On Jul 17, 1:14 pm, Ben B <benbooga...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On 17 jul, 08:07, Ben B <benbooga...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Jul 17, 12:58 am, Matty-t <mspy...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Jul 16, 3:31 pm, Ben B <benbooga...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On 16 jul, 07:04, Matty-t <mspy...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Jul 12, 1:40 pm, Ben B <benbooga...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello everybody.

I am new to this group, normally i hang around at rec.pinball.
I repaired a couple of pinball machines and now i am working on a
arcade machine.
I upload some pictures here :http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn186/benboogaard/PCB%20Walls/

 I love cool, and unheard of oldies like those. If I were you, and
that is a ceramic bipolar prom I see on the board, I would be
terrified to own it without a W

I think one of the IN5405 diodes is broke, I get 8 volt dc at the
inputleg of the 323 Voltage regulator.

 8 volts DC is not a bad reading here.

The output is 3,9 volts and i
think this is to low.

 That is too low. You can test each diode with diode check on your
meter when the game is off. or shotgun them both and forget about it.
Sounds like your going the shotgun route. If it's still low, that 323
may have kicked and those suckers are about 10 bucks ea. The input to
each diode is (or should be) around 7 volts AC (at the un-banded end),
and the output is DC of course (banded end).

I meseure .55 volt at the left diode but the right one i get no
reading what so ever. Think that this one is broken.

 .55 volt before, or after? banded? un-banded? is your meter reading
AC or DC? I think this is a mismanaged reading. If your getting 8
volts to the input of the 323, and .55 at the diodes before it, your
not reading it right.

But i am interested in some more information about this game. Like
brand, schematics, repairtips etc.

 Can't help ya there. It looks like a breakout cabinet? Maybe a
breakout export? don't know if such a thing existed or not. Here is
the PDF manual for breakout, page 45 shows the board layout and part
locations with numbers. Looks an aweful lot like yours! Check them
against your board, it may be an export version of breakout. If you
get matches everywhere, Ie. an 7400 @ whatevers shown, you can
probably use the breakout schematics for your board.

If i put the game on at this time i get a white screen and an anoing
hum.

 Ah yes, power issues, your already on the right track.

So if someone has any info please tell me.

Best regards,
Ben

 Did the best I could (who's the man?!), good luck, and long live the
old ***!

 - Matt

PS. Maybe even a breakout proto? Any serial information tags on the
back of the cabinet?

Thanks Matt for the info.
On the ceramic IC it says 6503J 7740
I replaced the diodes and the game is playeble
Only things i need to fix is a constant hum (maybe the big caps) and
the left part of the screen is wrong and de bottom is to low. I just
have to figure out how to adjust the monitor.
Als the spinner is acting strange but that should be the trim pot.
Here's a picture of the gamehttp://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn186/benboogaard/PCB%20Walls/?act...

It is'nt in color, thats just some colored tape taped on the monitor.

 Almost forgot to include the link to the breakout manual!

 http://www.arcadedocs.com/vidmanuals/B/Breakout.pdf

 Page 45, check the locations against the parts and you might have a
manual you can use. I think it's interesting that there is no brand
name markings anywhere. Have you checked the back of the cabinet for a
serial tag? What color is the coin door?

 That could be a very cool export version of breakout, or even a
prototype!

 - Matt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I will take a look for a serial number..... de coindoor is black.- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven -

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No serial number.
The PCB looks almost the same as in the manual only differences i
could find is that in the top whare the manuals says SPARE thare is a
IC and on the manual thare are 2 caps above the diodes who regulates
the 16vac. This 2 caps i dont have.

But anyone has any idee to fix the buss/humming noice?

 How bad is it?

 Clean the edge connectors, and replace all the electrolytic filter
caps. The AC leaking through the bad diode(s) probably crushed the
already ancient filter caps that are on the PCB. That should do it.

 Also if things are that close in regards to the breakout schematic,
you have a revision, or first revision of that PCB. So you can most
likley use that schematic to comfortably work your way around the
board. Just note the differences on your parts list and schematics,
and look for a 'REV ?' on your PCB to note the revision as well. Then
stick the manual in the cabinet so the next guy isn't stuck looking
for answers :)

 If you aquired that game in the USA, you might just have a/the
prototype. Mind if I ask where it came from?

 - Matt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I bought it from a guy on ebay in the Netherlands. He had a bunch of
old arcades. It's a private seller. I bought this one and an old U.F.O
Invaders cabinet. But whare the machine originaly came from no idee.

I will replace all caps to get the hum away. Stupid thing is i can't
find anything on the internet about a "walls down" cabinet.- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven -

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I found a REV no 011-A
.

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