Re: WTB: Working Asteroids XY monitor, 13"


G. Silber wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:Og6ek.58$av4.45@xxxxxxxxxxx
G. Silber wrote:
"James Sweet" <jamessweet1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:AvSdk.27$Cw5.14@xxxxxxxxxxx
G. Silber wrote:
let me know your price.
While I don't have an extra, what you want is an Electrohome G05 13", they were used in Asteroids, Asteroids Deluxe, and Battlezone cocktails and cabarets. I'm not sure if Omega Race had a mini, does anyone know of any other games that used this monitor?

Is yours missing entirely? They're pretty hard to find outside of a game. Haven't been manufactured in in close to 30 years and no other monitor will work.
I have one that has neck glow but no high voltage, and the logistics of repairing it is more than I want to put into it. I am assuming that the EHT unit is the problem, I looked at the board and everything checked out fine, as well as the 40V input to the unit. The monitor is a G05-805 yes, for an Asteroids cocktail. Nice to see you posting again JS.

I can guarantee that you could pay someone to repair the monitor you have for less than it will cost to find a replacement, unless you get very lucky. The CRT heater is powered directly from the transformer block in the cabinet, the HV gets the primary voltage from the LV power supply on the deflection board. If you have deflection chatter and the spot killer LED is not illuminated, then the problem is likely in the HV box. I've seen one bad HV transformer in the dozen or so of these I've worked on, other times I've found cracked solder joints, a couple of bad pots, bad capacitors, and in the 19" models with the voltage doubler, I've seen a number of those fail.

Actually I did find a replacement for a reasonable price, I got very lucky (I'll post the info if he says it is ok, I'm sure the regulars know him because I only see thanks and great guy postings about him). What I want to do is swap the deflection board and the high voltage unit and hopefully repair it to have an extra set on hand. It is on location over an hour away and I don't want to put any time into it and don't mind spending a few extra dollars to make that happen. Unfortunately I don't have a jig setup for XY's, otherwise I'd repair it. The reason why I believe it is the high voltage unit is because the LED was not on with a good input to the cage.



There are very few parts inside the HV cage, it's worth going through and replacing the caps, checking the transistors, and touching up the solder joints. You don't need a jig, you have the game, that's what I use for vector monitor repairs.
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