Re: gottlieb genesis start-up issues

On Sep 28, 11:15 pm, Rodney M <rodneymi...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I reseated the prom on the daughter board and the second prom on the
board, along with the CPU but that didn't make a difference.

That's good. Well, it sucks it didn't fix it, but it's good that
there's no change like there should be.

I installed new pins on both molex connectors of the power supply
along with new pins in the 5 pin connector (only 4 are used) to the
CPU.  This didn't make a difference either, but good to have these new
none the less.

Yes, always good to get into the habit of doing this on a Sys80B.

I've never had any solenoids lock on that I'm aware of but don't quote
me on it.  The only solenoids that have ever went off were the kicker
for the shooter lane tho that would just fire once and stop.  The
varistor for the unveiling of the monster in the middle of the
playfield would just keep running until the 8amp solenoid fuse would
blow.  After doing the ground mods to the grounds that connect to the
power brick, this stopped.

If the 8A sol. fuse was blowing, it was more than likely due to a coil
or coils locking on. You just may not have noticed them locking on.
After listening to the sound in your video, it sounds like you knocker
coil locks on as soon as you turn the game on. And at :23 in your
vid, I can here it disengaging.
FWIW, the motor for the figurine shield is not driven by a varistor.
There is a varistor across the leads of the motor, but the motor is
powered on and off by the 'A' relay in conjunction with the zero pos.
motor switch, (boy, a zero pos. switch is a funny thing to mention on
a solid state game).

Tonight I also tested the three bridge rectifiers in the bottom of the
cab and I think I found a bad one.  With my positive lead of my DMM on
the ground tab and with my black lead on the two tabs next to the
ground tab, I'm getting around a reading of about 3.6.  But when I
measure it with the black lead on the leg across from the ground leg
and put the red lead on the other two legs, it measures 4.7.  The
other BR's test out fine at 4.7 both ways.

I looked thru my stash and I only have a 35amp 200 watt bridge
rectifier and from reading Clay's guide, the machine calls for a 35amp
400 watt bridge rectifier.  The manual doesn't say for sure.  It just
calls it "EL-42". I also found this part # on Great Plains and they
say the same thing.

Is the F5 fuse blown? If so, 35A 400W is definitely the way to go.
It may be overkill, but I would rather go over than under on a bridge,
as long as there is enough space, which there is in this instance.
However, I don't think your bridge is bad, because the fuse would
blow, and you wouldn't have controlled lamps locked on like I see in
your vid.

If I'm reading the schematics correctly, it appears this bridge is for
the playfield illumination and the controlled lamps.  This might
explain why the lights in the backbox and the lights around the
monster in the middle of the playfield continually cycle, like in the
video I posted to YouTube.

The lights flashing in your video have nothing to do with the
controlled lamps. Those are flashers, and are not part of the
controlled lamp circuit. They use solenoid voltage as a source, and
the voltage is decreased by 2 separate power transistors located under
the PF. As I mentioned before, the flashers are lighting, because
your 'B' relay is locking on as soon as the game is turned on. For
the record, this is not normal operation, which I assume you already
know.

Try disconnecting your sound board, the aux. power supply, and the
display, and see if anything changes.

Jim
.

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