Re: stern galaxy allentown

On May 3, 11:29 pm, Tranmerelect...@xxxxxxx wrote:
On May 3, 10:16 pm, amus...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:





On May 3, 8:50 pm, Tranmerelect...@xxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 9:46 pm, Tranmerelect...@xxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 8:37 pm, amus...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 7:04 pm, Tranmerelect...@xxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 5:29 pm, amus...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 4:08 pm, amus...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

On May 3, 9:54 am, Royal Guard <hgale...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On May 3, 8:40 am, amus...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

On May 2, 10:31 pm, Tranmerelect...@xxxxxxx wrote:

So i bought a galaxy and got it home after getting up at 430 and still
up at 1130 pm im getting frustrated . I don't have the schematics
(couldnt find any yet) how do i get the credit button to by pass the
coin mechs. when i first fired it up it was working. Then my daughter
and i pulled the playfield out and replaced all the blown out bulbs
messed with a few other things then cleaned it some more now the damn
credit button doesnt give me credits? anyone have some ideas before i
hunt down the schematics. I put a new rottendog drive board in and i
cant get the left flipper to work either. The solenoid is defiantly
new.and seems to be free. I do have 45 volts at the coil too.. So i
cant let it go and get to sleep..Otherwise machine seems to work great
once i get the 2 problems fixed...any help would be appreciated. its
got a alltek mpu in it too

Alltek MPU should have a free play setting-check your dip sw. setting
document that comes with the board. Hopefully, it was included with
your game purchase.
Or, you may need to manually trip the coin sw's on coin door (under
coin mechs) to add credits...Some people add/retrofit a switch &
bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch
to add credits. The white start button (may be labeled "CREDIT
BUTTON") on the coin door it starts a game (and adds players with
sufficient posted credits on credit display) it does NOT add
credits....

As far as your left flipper:

Check wiring & connections (female) at your driver board (upper left
connector plug-flipper enable). You may have a wire thats not touching
the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit.
Then again, make sure ALL you molex connectors are making good contact
everwhere there is one on your game. They do come loose.....

Check your flipper coil winding wires where they meet the coil lugs
they do break and may look visually connected.

Check your left flipper E.O.S. (End Of Stroke) Switch: Switch dirty?
out of adjustment? (switch should be CLOSED when flipper is at rest)
Just plain worn? If this switch is not closed at rest, flipper will
definetly NOT work...

Check your left flipper cabinet switch: Switch dirty? out of
adjustment? (switch should be OPEN when flipper is at rest) Just plain
worn? Not making contact/good contact when button is pressed?

These are all things you might want to check (off the top of my
head)....Hope this helps you in your quest. If you figure it out,
please post what you found wrong....I too would like to know!

Eric/Connecticut

  Eric,

  Thanks for the help.. Ok ive fixed the credit deal now working on
the left solenoid by accident i shorted the  middle termonal and the
left terminal with 2 wires and pushed the flipper button and it worked
of course i cant continue to do that any ideas?? i do have another
solenoid but it seems fine if i could get this one to work without
shorting it out..is it a bad resistor?

Jim- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I take it you shorted the two coil lugs that have the wires that go to
the EOS switch correct? (Thus, overriding the E.O.S. sw) If so, and it
worked...you have a dirty (or pitted) contact on that EOS switch. And,
its not letting power pass through the contact(s) when flipper is at
rest. I'll bet you the contact is pitted...If this is so, you may want
to replace E.O.S. on BOTH flipper assem's. Maybe even replace the
flipper cabinet switches (often overlooked on old games) as
well...Because if they are worn too, they will eventually haunt you as
well. Remember, EOS switches need to be open upon full flipper stroke/
holding flipper button in or else you will overheat & fry the flipper
coil. Let me know what you find...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok Eric,

I'm learning so bare with me ive only been messing with pins for a
month and i'm on my second machine. I belive the switch was either
loose or just out of adjustment of course i change the coil before i
found that out. but never the less my 2 boys are playing the crap out
of that machine. Now one last thing that isnt working is the lower
section of llighting in the back glass area. im assuming its something
with the lamp driver board its old. I also have a stern lda 100 lamp
driver board that has a lamp out for the second player light its Q33.
Is there a way to test the transistor or resistor is it usually one or
the other?? again im sorry im new and taking a crash course...all
though i thought it would take me longer to get this machine going.
Thanks for your help- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

oops the stern lamp driver is for my stars- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OK, The lower lighting in the backglass area white door section is
called "General Illumination" (GI for short) same with lamps under
plastics on playfield.. If it is lamps that have black light shade
around a lamp in head area and inserts in playfield they are called
"Controlled Lamps"..GI lights are NOT controlled by the lamp driver
board...But, game controlled lamps are controlled by the lamp driver
board. I'll bet you mean the GI's lamps.....Check that rectifier board
between the inside speaker & knocker assem. Good chance the connector
(male & female parts) that controls the GI "strings" that go to the
lamps in question is burned. It's either one of the shorter
connectors, I believe the right one (gently jiggle it alittle with
power on and the string may light-only temporary if burned
connector)..Since you are new to pinball: historically these power
supply boards burn over time & age especially for GI lighting on ALL
games...Poor design/engineering is the main cause.It's just the way it
is!..Chances are the large connector on said board may have heat
stress burns as well. If any of the connectors in this area are burned
they will need to be replaced/rebuilt. Or, else you will have
intermittant power problems...This is alittle more involved to a
novice unless you feel comfortable doing this...Plus, you will need
the proper parts...Check the recifer board area and report back.....

Eric-

Ok  here we go. I went to check the power supply to find the J1 all
hacked soldered to the board itself. So as im trying to test it i
shorted out the  2 blue wires the lighting and solenoid board . i blew
the fuse and tried to replace the fuse but it blew again. I'm hoping i
didnt cook one of my new boards.good thing i think is that i unplugged
everything and the fuse still blew so im hoping for the best.so i
think i need a new power board cause the one i have is all burnt. I
just spent the last hour replacing my female plugs so when i get a new
one i will have new connectors.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, welcome to another part of the pinball world (hack repairs-you
just witness your first hack job repair) that was what I was afraid
of---Someone in the past decided to instead replace the burned
connector properly they soldered the wires directly to the board male
header pins...Seen (& repaired) this a million times over the years!
When they do this, if the recifier board needs to be removed from the
game for service its now "hard wired in" I am not there to see the
board but, if you say its really burned I do believe you due to the
age of that game...Yea, get a replacement rectifer board and rebuild
the female connectors....These are some of the surprises that await
went buying a show project game---Trying to help you the best I
can....

Eric/CT
.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: stern galaxy allentown
    ... bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch ... the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit. ... with the lamp driver board its old. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: stern galaxy allentown
    ... bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch ... the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit. ... with the lamp driver board its old. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: stern galaxy allentown
    ... bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch ... the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit. ... with the lamp driver board its old. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: stern galaxy allentown
    ... bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch ... the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit. ... with the lamp driver board its old. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: stern galaxy allentown
    ... bracket to the coin return lever thats then wired into the coin switch ... the male pin on said connector thats part of the left flipper circuit. ... with the lamp driver board its old. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)