Re: 1975 Wizard EM repair

On Mar 8, 8:59 pm, Pinball wizard <sa6m...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Mar 8, 10:22 pm, Kerry <kcimm...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:





On Mar 8, 8:49 pm, Pinball wizard <sa6m...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I didn't see a red wire on the tilt relay, so I went back to the
detailed picture and saw where the red wire is and put one in.
Now the game when powered on blows the 50 volt 15 amp fuse when I open
the game over interlock relay.

So I took the wire I put back in out and I'm back to where I was
before the fuse blowing.

Hi Mike,
I'm not sure we're talking about the same wires here, so I apologize
if what I say here is completely obvious.  Refering to the TILT relay
in your picture.  The two wires on top (red w/white and yellow w/brown
drive the relay COIL.  Those aren't the switch wires I'm talking
about.  The switch wires are the ones off to the right connected to
the switch blades.  In that picture they have plastic insulators over
them.

There should be a switch blade pair on that TILT relay that has a RED
wire on one blade and a RED w/WHITE stripe on the other blade.  When
the relay is OFF, those should be shorted together.  I was suggesting
shorting across those two wires... and actually across multiple
switches to remove the switches from the circuit temporarily to see
exactly what is working.

Another approach is to look at that switch and make sure it's making
good contact when closed and clean the contacts with some fine
sandpaper.  If you manually close the relay and watch the switch, when
the relay opens it should hit the other blade and move it about
1/16".  If that doesn't happen you need to bend the fixed switch blade
slightly to close the gap.  There's an L-Adjuster tool to do this, but
a needle nose plier might get in there.  The bend should be as close
to the base of the switch (brown insulator blocks) as possible.

Once those three switches (from previous post) all have continuity it
will power your flippers.  After that we can figure out which relay
coils aren't being controlled properly.

I hope this helps.  Hang in there.

- Kerry

At this point I'm out of fuses Ive blown half a dozen or more, so I'm
dead in the water right now.

On the good side I tried to reproduce what I saw in the picture I
poster off of Zaacria website and used jumper alligator clips to make
the right connections as it was in the picture, when I did so I got
flippers for a sec or two untill another fuse blew.

On the subject of fuses....Ive checked EVERYWHERE in this town, and I
cant find the right fuses.
Where do you get a 50volv 15 amp fuse and a 6 volt 15 amp fuse?

Thank you again for the help
Regards
Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Mike,

Look for 15A 125V fuses. They'll be good for both applications and
fairly easy to find. The 50V and 6V is what's going through them on
Wizard. The 125V rating on the fuse insures that if it blows, the
element will blow in a way that it won't arc (below 125V).

AL CARGPB 33(1/3)
www.Team-EM.com
.

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