Re: Tech: EM help needed, My 300 will play one ball then the score motor cycles endlessly

On Aug 12, 8:38 am, skbrothers <skbroth...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Aug 11, 10:13 am, Gott Lieb? <r...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:





Something to look at regarding all four player lights lit when playing a
single player game.  If 300 used a coin unit, (not certain exactly what
game GTB started using these on 4 player games), check the switches, the
wiper contacts, and wiper position of the coin unit.  The coin unit
should be right behind the chimes on the motor board.  If GTB didn't use
a coin unit in this game, check the switch contacts on your game over
relay, last ball relay, and the player unit switch stack, (specifically
position F on cams 1-4).

With the situation of the game stuck on ball 1, make certain that your
first ball relay pulls in once points are scored.  If it does, inspect
the switches on it.  Also, as Chris mentioned, make sure the trough
switch is clean, and making contact.

Jim

skbrotherswrote:
Thanks Ctsteps...

I adjusted the "O" relay and now the ball will kick out to the shooter
trough as it should.

I play the ball through until it drains then the bonus collects, the
score motor cycles and the ball gets kicked into the shooter trough
for what should be "Ball 2"..

All is well except the ball never advances.  In other words, my game
never advances beyond "Ball 1".  I am able to play "Ball 1" over and
over and over.

One other complication is that on power up a ball is immediately
kicked into the shooter trough (Without even hitting the "start"
button) AND all 4 player lights are lit as if I had hit the start
button four times.

At the end of the ball it kicks the ball into the shooter lane,
remains on "Ball 1" and never advances to player two.  Remember, I
never "Coined up" a 4 player game it just shows as a 4 player game
upon start up.

Lots o' weird stuff happening here.

Any thoughts?

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Closing in on it now...

We adjusted one of the switches on the BX relay (Make/Break) that
seemed to making contact when it shouldn't be.  That netted us a
soultion to the "Perpetual ball one" issue.

Now the game will play through each ball as it should but at the end
of game the score motor continues to cycle over and over and over.

Later today/tonite we will review the "game over" and/or "last ball"
relays.

Something we learned when checking switch stack relays is to simulate
the release of a switch stack closure by pulling the hold coil plastic
down, NOT pulling the switch activator plastic down.

By "switch activator plastic" I mean the rectangular plastic that all
the metal switch tabs feed through.  When this plastic engages (by
activation of the associated hold coil) the switches are mechanically
moved to their new position open or closed.

I used to check the switch open or closed state by manually pushing
this switch plastic up or down with my finger, thus opening or closing
the associated switches in the stack.  Bad move human!

Manually moving this plastic can actually move the switch activator
plastic further than it will travel if it is simply released by the
hold coil's plastic release clip.  Thus switches may appear open/
closed when you manually open the switch activator plastic that won't
actually be opened/closed when the game releases the switch activator
plastic with the hold coil's plastic release switch.

That was the problem I found with a switch I thought was properly
"Open" on my BX earlier when in fact it was closed....

Not sure any of this makes sense or not, but hey I'm trying ;-)

Simply put "Don't manually manipulate switches with your fingers when
determining a unit's condition.  Use any mechanical release mechanisms
provided in the game to simulate state changes".  OK that's what I
should have said in the first place :-)

Were getting closer!

Thanks for the help all....

Steve and Justin- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

OK We think we nailed it down...

We figured the "Game Over" relay had something to do with the game not
ending after ball 3 (I know, we're real geniuses aren't we ;-) ). So
I start checking switch positions and all seems OK. However, I notice
the hold coil on the "Game Over" relay is kinda toasty so I take the
assembly off the rack to check it out.

Guess what?

The copper windings are shorted out like a burnt out lightbulb!

Thus the coil never engages the "Game Over" switches and the game will
never end. If I manually engage the "Game Over" switch stack after
ball 3 the game ends as it should.

Looks like I need to put in an order to Pinball Resource today for new
coils!

On another note I checked other coils and see that my "1st Ball" coil
is toasty too, so I will replace it as well. Is it common to have
these two coils in this condition? All the other coils look fine.

It appears that when a game is over, the "Game Over" coil locks on
until another game is started, is this nornal?

It wouldn't seem logical to me to have a coil energized in a hold
position until somebody drops another coin and starts a game. A
machine could go all day without getting played and that "Game Over"
coil would just get hotter and hotter....no wonder mine fried out.

Any thoughts?

We're pretty proud of ourselves and hope that we have truly found the
solution!

Thanks all!

Steve and Justin
.

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