Re: TECH: Power Play, new boards and reading schematics...

one more word of advice. If you're going to re-pin connectors, I
suggest you cut off the old ones, one by one, leaving a small nub of
wire so you can identify it's color. Then strip, crimp, and insert
into the new housing. I used to remove one, re-pin it, and insert it,
one by one, then I got interrupted and lost my place since the old
housing had some blank positions. Leaving the old pin in place
reduces the chance of loosing your place. Cutting and re-pinning one
at a time reduces it even further.

Finally, use trifurcon pins on the rectifier board.


steve
---
Steve Kulpa (cargpb10)
Hermitage, TN
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/pinball.htm - Pinball
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/faces/rgpidx.htm - Faces

On Jul 15, 11:25 pm, Fuey <pilgar...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks Steve...I was hoping you would chime in here since you are quite
the BOPP expert.  If I crash and burn, I'll be emailing you...hehheh.

Thanks again!

-Mike

In article
<6f302438-a303-409c-a735-a1f439195...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
 Steve Kulpa <steveku...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:



You sound like you have it all under control.   Soldering wires to
test points is a common hack that I'm sure was done in the field as
it's a quick and easy way to fix a burnt connector.

and you are right again, A2, A3, ... are the individual boards.  You
can find which is which at the beginning of the manual, and again in
the manual where the parts are listed for each board.  The connectors
(J1, J2, ...) are listed on the boards and on the board's diagrams in
the manual.  Be careful to get the proper wires in the proper place,
and note where the keys are and get them properly set too, then you
should be good to go.

good luck!
steve
---
Steve Kulpa (cargpb10)
Hermitage, TN
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/faces/rgpidx.htm ; - Faces
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/pinball.htm - Pinball

On Jul 15, 10:44 pm, Fuey <pilgar...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hey all,

I am in the process of replacing all the boards in my Power Play with
Alltek upgrades (MPU, lamp driver and Solenoid driver boards), and I am
finding various hacks that were done to the old boards.  Wires were cut
and soldered to test points, and one wire was soldered right to resistor
R61 on the MPU board.  Apparently a couple of wires that were in the
Molex connector on A2J3 were cut and soldered to TP4 on the rectifier
board.  So...I am looking at the schematics and wiring diagrams for this
machine and my questions are:

1)  When looking at the wire connections, they are listed like A3J3-12.
That means it goes to connection 12 on connector J3 on A3 (Voltage
Regulator/Solenoid Driver) right?  There is a number in front of the
diagram that I am assuming is coded for the wire color (70 which would
be orange with no trace).

2)  The wires that were soldered to test points on the rectifier board
are attached to 7vAC and appear to run to GI circuits on the backboard.
According to the wiring diagram, they correlate to A2J3 10 and 11.  The
other cut and soldered wires run to displays and down to the playfield.
I assume it's easiest to trace those wires to where they end and figure
out where they should go.

If I am right about reading these diagrams, it seems pretty
straightforward to figure out where these wires should go.  From the
condition of the molex connectors, they burned and instead of replacing
them, the hacker just soldered wires to test points.  I am replacing all
the Molex connectors on all the boards, and going one wire at a time, I
am keeping track of things pretty well.

Any help or advice is wholeheartedly welcomed....thanks!

-Mike- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

.

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