Re: Bounty Hunter Gottlieb System 80a Help



GPE = Great Plains Electronics. Ed is great guy to deal with, and his prices are extremely fair. The parts that he sells are gauged toward pinball machines. The pot he has is located here - http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=24, part # 3362P-1-501.

The adverse effects of the reset board are a game not booting or a CPU resetting at will.

The sound problem is probably just a dirty pot. The speaker could be a fault, if it's torn. If it's anything related to the speaker, it's more than likely a bad connection to the speaker. Upgrade the speaker, if you really like the sound. It's your call.

To test an MPS-U45 or an MPS-A13, put your DMM in diode testing mode. Put the red lead on the center leg (base) of the transistor. Place the black lead on the right leg (collector) and then the left leg (emitter). The collector reading should be ~0.6 - 0.8. The emitter reading should be ~1.20 - 1.30. If you swap the black and red leads, you should not get any readings. If all of your coils are firing and your lamps are working, then the transistors are good. Well, at least the ones used on your game. If you have targets that are registering sporadically, then the problem is either dirty switches on the target switch or marginal connectors on the strobe or return line of the switch matrix. The switch matrix connects to the CPU via A1-J5, A1-J6, and A1-J7. The switches are not handled by the driver board. The driver board is responsible for the solenoids and relays, the lamps, and the sound signals.

Jim
CARGPB35


billd420 wrote:
<snip>

Jim- Sorry for my ignorance, but who is GPE? Do you have a website for
them? Also, do you have a part number for a suitable (size-wise) trim
pot?

Is there any adverse effects of using the reset PCB? Sometimes the
game gets long spurts of play, but when its not in use its powered
down.

I'll go ahead and do the AC transformer ground mod when I'm in the pin
again later.

The reason I asked about the caps is I swear the volume of the machine
is inconsistent, but I could be mistaken. My experience with arcade
machines/pcb's tells me to change out the volume pot and recap the
audio amp circuit. Could my speaker be at fault here? Is it worthwhile
to upgrade it?

Finaly, do you have any insight testing the transistors on the driver
PCB? Clay's guide has a link to testing the individual transistors on
that board, however the link is broken, and he doesn't mention it
again in the guide (from what I could tell). I believe my driver PCB
is working 100%, but I wanted to be sure. Some of the bulls eye
targets don't register a hit 100% of the time, and I'm trying to
figure out if the game is supposed to play that way, if the switches
are dirty/bad or if the driver board is having an issue.

Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE for helping me out!! My first pinball
experience was definitely a great one, you guys are the best.

-Bill
.



Relevant Pages

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