Re: BLKING stuck on for 3-5 minutes on AFM - how does Blanking work in WPC-S?

Your problem very likely had nothing to do with those diodes, as
they're for GI and have nothing to do with anything else.

I suspect John is exactly right and your 5V was a bit low to the CPU.
The act of removing the board to repair the diode issue cleaned the
connectors/pins enough to get you back to normal. The issue will
likely resurface again in the future until you replace the header/
connectors for the 5V to the CPU.


Ratsputin wrote:
On Jun 30, 2:37�pm, Ratsputin <brett.w...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Jun 30, 1:57�pm, "John Wart, jr" <johnwar...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:





What do the voltage test points look like when this happens? Especially the
+5 TP?

I've had WPC-S games take a long while to boot because the +5 was too low.

Granted, you are dealing with WPC95, but it's prety similar

"Ratsputin" <brett.w...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message

news:43163d97-feb5-41c9-b681-30937e707639@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I'm having an odd problem with my AFM and wondering if anyone
understands WPC-S blanking.

When I power the game up after it's been off for a while, everything
in the backbox powers up, and I get a "bong" out of the AV board. �At
this point though, nothing in the playfield will light up and the DMD
is off.

After a bit of checking, I found that the BLKING LED (LED201 on CPU
board) is staying on rather than shutting off after 2-3 seconds.

Here's the odd part, though, after 3-5 minutes, the BLKING LED goes
off, and the machine starts its light show (as would be expected) and
operates normally thereafter. �Assuming that Blanking is something
similar to what Williams did in the System 7 days and before, I assume
this means the driver board isn't initializing.

Does anyone have an understanding of what's being checked during
initialization, and what sorts of things would be standing in the way
of Blanking being released?

My next (obvious) step is to swap out the driver board and see if the
problem goes away, but I'd rather have a logical course of action.

Brett- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

John-

Thanks for correcting me on the platform. �For some reason I had it in
my head that this was a WPC-S game.

When it's up-and-running, I've got 5.04VDC. �Of course, now that it's
been on recently, the stupid thing won't reproduce the problem. �I'm
starting to be more suspicious of a voltage problem. �I swear I
checked the +5VDC test point when BLKING was on and it was over 5V,
but I'll have to retest it later on tonight or tomorrow morning.

Brett- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

LMAO! I may have just tracked down the problem. The array of diodes
in the lower-left-hand corner of the driver board had been replaced.
Two of those were in backward.

I noticed on Clay's site it mentions something about Williams saying
to just remove them (D25-D32) entirely and replace them with jumpers.
That seems a bit odd. The voltage doesn't need to be rectified?

I'll try turning the diodes around the RIGHT way (after testing them)
and report back... Perhaps half-wave rectification was causing a cap
to charge more slowly -- hence my long ramp-up time for boot.

Brett
.

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