Re: Tech EM: Gottlieb Spirit of 76' multiple issues



Excellent Jigs! You're making progress.
Yes, on SO76, the left and right pops are fired on the same circuit.
So, fix that right pop before attempting to fire either of them. Pop
bumper coils are A-4893. If you order from PBR, they come with a
sleeve.

Gummed up...yup...very common. Remove the "spoon" that the bumper
skirt finger sits in. There should be two screws holding the entire
spoon assembly down to the PF. Check it out. I bet there is a bunch of
congealed lube in there. Use your favorite cleaner to get =all= of
that out. Clean the skirt finger too. Reassemble with the finger in
the absolute middle of the spoon, and the spoon tight up against the
finger. Gap the points that fire the coil as close as you care. Too
close and vibration may cause them to fire. Too far and they won't
fire unless really smacked.

General EM theory of operation...

Something happens on the PF to close a switch.
That switch is shown on the schematic on the right (for Gottlieb games
anyway). It is on the solenoid power side of the circuit.
That switch will complete the circuit to a coil, which will pull in a
relay or a plunger (in the case of a score reel or pop bumper).
The relay will cause the score motor to run (generally) and by virtue
of closing other switches on the relay, the action intended will be
carried out (i.e. bonus added, points scored, etc).
The game assumes that the action is carried out and somewhere near the
end of the score motors 1/3 revolution, a normally closed switch will
open, interrupting the circuit to the originally closed relay (you can
see this in the timing chart on the schematic)
The motor runs until the cam at motor 1C drops into it's slot, opening
a switch on motor 1C and causing the motor to stop.

For score reels...
A PF switch closes (lets say a 10 point switch).
The 10 point relay (N) is energized (via the process outlined above).
The 10 point relay will have a set of normally open contacts...
o One to "seal" itself in.
o One to ring the 10 point chime
o One to energize the 10 point score reel
o Perhaps others
Generally, 10 point switches/relays don't cause the score motor to run
so the way that the 10 point relay get's "unsealed" is via the EOS
(end of stroke, shown on the schematic as "ON ADD 1ST. TENS") switch
on the 10 point score reel. This NC (normally closed) switch completes
the circuit to the 10 point relay.
When opened, power is interrupted to that 10 point relay, and the game
is ready to score more points.

Simple, isn't it?
Of course, for a multiplayer game like SO76, it gets a little more
complicated by the multiplayer circuitry, but the concepts is still
true.

Once you've worked on enough of these games, you'll notice patterns.
For instance...
Gottlieb always used L, M, and N as the 1000, 100, and 10 point relays
(and K for a 10,000 point relay in some games)
The reset and player unit implementations are reused quite a bit.
And many, many more.

I like to listen to an episode of TOPCast while I'm working on pins,
or perhaps my favorite music. It helps keep the mind clear. If I begin
to get tired or frustrated, it's time to "put down the tools and step
away from the machine". This prevents me from making goofy mistakes,
usually...

For a really nice example of a SO76 restoration, and something for all
of us to aspire to, check out Dave Pauk's pictures here:
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/dmp65

Enjoy!
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
.



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