Re: TECH: Gottlieb System 80 - Coin Mech not crediting and start button not working

On Jun 7, 7:02 am, Matt <sirmisterm...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Jun 7, 9:12 am, Matt <sirmisterm...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:





On Jun 7, 9:07 am, Matt <sirmisterm...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Jun 7, 8:30 am, Matt <sirmisterm...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Jun 6, 10:34 pm, Steve Charland <ccharl...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

    LOL, I see you have your own "low hanging fruit" troll DD, does it
always post like it's drunk or is this a once in a while thing?   ;)
-S   (CARGPB1)

biscuitbe...@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Long time no hear, Dave!  Are you back from making your millions
trying to sell your container junk?

What, you have nothing better to do on a Friday night than to quibble
with the juniors who have meaningless money?

Looks like you haven't learned any grammar in your absence.  It's nice
to know some things never change! :-)

Oh, by the way, have you ever figured out how to paint a coin door?

Weren't you trying some POS lime green guitar previously owned by some
second rate heavy metal vomit head?  Did it sell?

Wow, your post just made my day!  What a maroon!

Best,
Dan

Dan,

OK realized I am a logic probe idiot...where should I put my ground
wire and red wire on this board? I thought that you just had a
"ground" wire which then allowed the logic pulse currents to run
through the probe and be read? Is that not correct?

Best,
Matt

Well the kicker holes are fixed.

Story? OK so ET came down in his big glowing ship with his crusty
grandpa, who telepathically imparted System 80 knowledge beyond the
scope of human understanding to me and...

No, actually I just had taken a bunch of lights out of the playfield
to level inserts and was looking at the light below the three kick out
holes. No grounds were crossed, in fact they were further apart than
specified above.

The solenoids were still kicking, though, so I decided to stop the
game and plug the lights back in underneath the kickers (the ones that
light up 1, 2 and 3). Lo and behold, restart the game and the damned
things stop kicking! 900000 high score to date blink is restored!

I feel like I just helped add to the encyclopedic body of knowledge
that is the System 80 repair docs, section under "Strange, Anomalous
and Idiot Mistakes."

Man that was strange.

MOVING ON...

Well, now that the game credits and the symphony has been silenced,
all I have left to figger out is why the Replay button ain't working.

Looking in manual, on pg 21, I find "Replay button - strobe code 4".

pg 22 lists replay button as A7J1-6.

I scoured the rest of it and tried to make some sort of connections or
sense of it and what part controls the Replay button and could be the
problem, but could find nothing else that "linked up" in my mind,
including any more references to the Replay button.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Best regards,
Matt

Geez I forgot to put "on Chris Hibler's advice" in there...sorry
Chris, you are "da man." Thanks for pointing this out, it worked!

Best,
Matt

Dan,

I saw what you were getting at on thehttp://www.geocities.com/kirbseepe/repairswitches.html
site.

Test Pin 19 of U4 is what you wanted, although I do need to know where
to put those alligator leads of the logic probe itself.

From that site, it in fact has my exact problem, I think:

"EXAMPLE: missing entire row of switch 40-44. (follow along with CPU
schematic)
This indicates a missing strobe #4. Start at connector J5-6 and J6-5
(no strobe is seen), so then move on to chip Z11-6 (no storbe seen),
then move on to U4-19 (strobe seen). At this point you need to make
sure the strobe is making it from U4 to Z11. This strobe goes into
Z11-5 (see schematic) and should be there if at U4-19. A strobe at
Z11-5, but not Z11-6 would indicate a bad Z11 which would need to be
replaced. No strobe at U4-19 would indicate a bad U4- RIOT (common)."

Now I did just replace Z11, but have not checked the connectors. When
he says "Start at connector J5-6 and J6-5 (no strobe is seen)," does
he mean shut down the game, unplug the connector, restart it and then
test the connector itself?

Or is it test the connector while still connected and the game is on?

Best,
Matt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Hi Matt,

there should be three alligator clips on your logic probe. Two are
for battery power (I use a nine volt), or on some probes you can
harness the 5 VDC from the board you are testing, and the third
(should be black) is to be attached to logic ground on the board you
are testing. In this case attach it to the (-) side of capacitor C1.
If there is only one alligator probe then you probably have to add
batteries internally to the probe. Consult the instructions that came
with the probe. If you do not have instructions, fire off a digital
picture of the probe to me.

In terms of testing the A1J5 and A1J6 connectors. Yes, you test them
still attached to the board. Did you ever figure out how to look at
the U4 schematic on page 29? Once you get your logic probe up an
running you will want to test all the strobes and returns.

Regards,
Dan
.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: TECH: Gottlieb System 80 - Coin Mech not crediting and start button not working
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  • Re: TECH: Gottlieb System 80 - Coin Mech not crediting and start button not working
    ... OK...logic probe. ... the top and bottom of the capacitor near the left side power connector ... Those are 1N270 glass diodes. ... (no strobe is seen), so then move on to chip Z11-6, ...
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