Re: I now prefer to crimp :)

Congrats! Glad you liked them. If I was Betting... There are many on this
board that have never used a really good criimper.
My knowledge of them and how good they are was simply because I used to
repair Mini-computers and Networking equiptment.

I'm too cheap to spend $89 for good crimpers; I'd only use them a couple
times a year on my own or friends games.
The really good ones crimp the insulation down as well. Sounds like you've
got good crimpers, just not top end; and that's still easier than soldering!

But if you are doing a lot of crimping, the right tool is definitely worth
the $89 you paid just in time saved.

Enjoy,
Dallas...

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"m6onz5a" <corvair@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:daec171e-3a9a-4653-ac86-975be0768dbd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I just got my sargent crimper and did my first crimp job after
practicing about 10 times. I do have to say I like how nice they
turned out.. Now I can change my game settings since it now works :)
Oh, got it for $89 too.

Chas

On Feb 20, 2:46 pm, "Dallas Overturf" <dallas.overt...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
You are probably using a cheap set of crimpers; would be my guess. The
"correct" set has a ratchet like action such that
once you start the crimp you can't abort it.

I've always used cheap crimpers (Good needle nose pliers) on pinball and
followed that up with a small touch of solder. No problems to date!

If you look around I've seen info on why soldering is bad from the
manufacturers. But... It worked fine for me over many years and on
location in the 80's
Oh and the right tool in the 80's used to cost an arm and a leg and these
were made by the manufacturer of the pins as I recall.

Most of the stuff I've seen listed on here is the cheap stuff available at
your local electrical/electronics shop.
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"m6onz5a" <corv...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message

news:117362d9-478c-47f0-b21c-c0f0295306a6@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx



I started tackling my Strikes and Spares solenoid problem by replacing
the J4 connectors for the MPU, and the solenoid driver board.

I got all of my crimping tools together and started to go to work. I'd
crimp a wire, give it a little tug to make sure it won't fall out,
install the wire into the molex plug, give one final minor tug to
double check the wire. Move on to the next wire

I'd start on the second wire doing the same steps. WTF! Now the wire
doesn't want to stay when I crimp it, and I keep boogering up the pins
from trying to crimp them too hard. I went through a good 5 or 6
connectors before I said F&#* IT!! (I only bought 100 of them for 2
conncectors) LOL

I went for my soldering iron. Boy this sped things right up. Just put
a drop of solder where the wire lays, and these wires aren't coming
off.

I'm now convinced soldering is the way to go. It was sooooo much
easier, and I didn't have to worry about messing up the pins from over
crimping. And the pin snapped ever so easily into the connector
without ANY fuss.

Chas- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


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Relevant Pages

  • Re: I now prefer to crimp :)
    ... The really good ones crimp the insulation down as well. ... were made by the manufacturer of the pins as I recall. ... the J4 connectors for the MPU, ... crimp a wire, give it a little tug to make sure it won't fall out, ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: I now prefer to crimp :)
    ... I'm too cheap to spend $89 for good crimpers; I'd only use them a couple ... The really good ones crimp the insulation down as well. ... just not top end; and that's still easier than soldering! ... >> crimp a wire, give it a little tug to make sure it won't fall out, ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
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    ... once you start the crimp you can't abort it. ... followed that up with a small touch of solder. ... were made by the manufacturer of the pins as I recall. ... crimp a wire, give it a little tug to make sure it won't fall out, ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: What is correct way to replace Header pins?(Molex)
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