Re: TECH: Meteor Lamp/Sound

Thanks a Ton Guys - will give this a shot over the next few days and
see how it comes out! :) Looking forward to getting this game up and
running!

- Matt

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 08:48:02 -0500, "seymour-shabow@xxxxxxxxxx"
<seymour-shabow@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hey I can't take a day off from RGP to go play poorly in a tournament??

Actually the strip sockets can be saved if you are will to do a little
work to them - you solder the outer part (that moves) to the strip. Or,
a new twist on this that I discovered while parting out a playfield,
take a bare wire, sand the sides of the sockets on the strip, and solder
the wire to each socket. This way, if one goes bad, it will still get
its voltage from the next socket down (it makes a 'backup path' for the
electricity normally flowing through the strip itself.) Attach the end
of the wire to the bare wire providing the lamp voltage at the top of
the strip.

If you want to really bulletproof the sockets, take the center wire,
desolder it, strip the insulation about 1" long, thread through the
eyelet, around it securely, sand the center tit on the socket, solder it
to the center tit and the tab/eyelet. You will never have a problem
with that socket again unless the bulb itself burns out.

I do both of these things automatically now with all the older games I
shop - it just makes the bulbs super reliable. You will still have
sockets that are very corroded that will need to be replaced though.
Another tip for the solder to flow nicely, Radioshack sells a clearflux
solder that works very well to solder to the metal of the sockets - you
HAVE to sand the socket though or the solder will not stick.


The sound problem is probably bad / marginal ribbon cables. Try moving
them around a bit to see if the sound comes back.

Yeah I agree with that one - those ribbon cables can be very flaky.
Make sure you didn't bridge one of those .100 headers on j5 too.

Matt's Pinball Room: http://pinballs.white.prohosting.com/
.

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