Re: Tech: TFTC lamp matrix issue?



On Dec 3, 2:22 am, JJJ <stym138NOS...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Not sure how to post this so you understand what I'm saying. Here it
goes. all lamps in one column and/or row do not work. Looking at the
lamp matrix chart, 57 (left turbo), 58 (bottom turbo), 59 (right
turbo), 60 (jackpot), 61 (multiball), 62 (Left ramp enter), 63 (right
ramp enter), 64 ( axe-tra ball).

All these lights worked at least the first game played when I got the
game home and powered it on. Some time during that first day they all
quit.

In case this helps...This game had a long bumpy ride to where I met up
to get it. I spent the first day with the game resoldering wires under
the playfield. There were things that didn't work right off the bat
because the wires broke off and had to be resoldered, and there were
wires that broke off during that first day of play that had to be
resoldered (shaker motor finished off what the bumpy ride did not?).
The tombstone that blocks the Crypt was knoked out of wack, and the
display lost the bottom line (seller said everything including display
worked 100% when he packed it up- he has a good rep - so that's how
bumpy the ride was). There was also an issue with the memory only
keeping for a few days. I posted for help about that and I think
that's OK now (thanks all!).

I think my manual says the pop bumpers use #89 bulbs. They have 555s
in them (that's what was in there...Just realized tonight. I don't
have #89 bulbs, never had a game that used them). Not sure if that's
an issue. Will order the 89s.

Q64 is for all those lamps. I tested it with the DMM ( set to diode,
red on center leg of transistor, black at each side...Like they show
in TOP 5.2). I get .561 on one side. I get 1.602 on the other.
All other transistors in the lamp matrix (7 others), pretty much read .
560 on one side, between .674 & .918 on the other. Is 1.602 an OK
reading for the one side of Q64?
I actually couldn't get any reading on Q70, but those lamps work. Just
goes to show I don't know what the hell I'm doing. Yes, the YEL-GRY
wire is in CN7-pin 9.

I had hoped this would be simple as soldering back another broken-off
wire, but I don't see anything loose. After I figure this out, I think
the game will actually be working 100%. That will be very cool.

Any help is appreciated!
-Julius

555 is the proper bulb for the pops. 89 is a larger bulb that is used
for the flash. The base is also different and requires a higher
voltage to power it.

It's possible that that transistor is bad. They sometimes test good
and are really bad. I've had this happen more them once. You need to
also check the small transistor just before Q64. I think it's Q56? If
after you change these out and it still does not work then one of the
two control chips that feed these transistors may be bad. I don't have
the schismatics so I cant help with the ID on these. However it is a
better possibility that you have a broken wire. Recheck and follow
them all the way back to the boards. Look for a cracked solder joint
at one of the sockets or broken or pinched wire. Since the whole
string is out it may be at the beginning or end. Also the header pin
that the connector plugs into may have a broken solder joint or is
burnt. Is it discolored from heat?
Good luck and have fun, Dave
.



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