Re: Weak TZ Flippers.

It's becoming likely there are some wiring errors in your game.
It may well be someone has rewired the game to get partial
functionality of your flippers.
Manually trace the wires in the plugs on the following headers, do not
apply power until all the steps are verified and corrections made if
needed.
J102 pins 6 and 9 should be Black with Yellow stripe, 50Vac from
transformer. There are also jumpers from pin 6 to pin 5, and pin 9 to
pin 8 on this plug. If not find out why. You must have this for
sufficient flipper power.
Note that your TZ manual will show this as 16Vac input on page 3-28,
but this is a mis-print, that voltag comes in on the same plug pins
1-4.

J105 (J104 could also be used, they are the same pinout), should be
White with bBlue stripe, same 50Vac as J102, pass through to
Fliptronics board, J901 pins 1 and 3. There are also jumpers from pin
1 to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 5 on this plug. Again, if not, correct
this.

And last, after rectifying the 50Vac input from J901 and passing
through 4 separate fuses for each flipper, the now almost 70Vdc
flipper power outputs at:
J907 pins 1 and 2 are jumpered by a Blue with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to the lower right flipper.
J907 pins 4 and 5 are jumpered by a Gray with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to lower left flipper.
J907 pins 6 and 7 are jumpered by a Blue with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to the upper right flipper.
J907 pins 8 and 9 are jumpered by a Grey with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to upper left flipper.

Make sure nothing has been added to the flippers, such as jumpers to
other voltage sources.

For reference, my attract mode voltages are approximately 56Vac into
J102 pin 6 to pin 9, and 69Vdc from any of the pins on J907 to ground.

Use caution, these are some of the most dangerous voltages in your pin
and can do great harm to you or the electronics if mishandled.

Scott

On Oct 12, 10:05 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Oct 12, 10:15 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 10, 2:27 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From your test results, it appears you are measuring your ac voltages,

each leg to ground, not the best indicator. The differential of 25.5
and 28.3 is suspicious too.
Anyway, measure the AC voltage on the Power Driver board (PDB), at
J102, between pins 8 and 5, and again between pins 9 and 6, not to
ground. I don't recall exactly, but this should be something like 50
Vac or a bit higher. There is suppose to be a jumper in the J102
connector between 8 and 9, and again between 5 and 6, to handle the
current demand, this double check will verify it is there and working.

Next measure the AC voltage at the Fliptronics board (FTB), J901
between pins 1 and 3, and again between pins 2 and 5. Here again there
should be a jumper in the connector from pin 1 to pin 2, and pin 3 to
pin 5, to handle the current demand.
The AC voltage you read at J901 should be nearly Identical to what you
saw at J102 of the PDB.
If not, there is resistance in the path through the PDB from J102 to
J104/105 and/or out through the cable to J901 on FTB.
If the AC voltage is the same at both J102 and J901 from your test,
but the DC voltage relative to ground you see on the flippers is a
great deal lower than the pops or slings for instance, then there must
be either:

A defect in the bridge rectifier circuit on the FTB, such as an open
leg or high resistance from poor solder. Which is not likely since you
said you swapped the FTB out.

Or there is a load on the FTB output, loading down the supply.
You can isolate all the flippers from the FTB by pulling J907, or try
each of the four flipper fuses F901 - F904,one at a time, if the DC
voltage jumps up close to 70Vdc, after you remove a fuse, there is an
issue with a load on that branch.

Scott

On Oct 9, 10:57 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 9, 4:13 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Frankly, I'm surprised you are not getting flipper resets with that
line voltage.The first connector you mentioned is the connection that
goes to coin door for DBV. I'm disappointed the black and white wires
are swapped, but it is not crucial, just does not match schematics.
(Also, note the power drawings often have some errors relating to this
jumper stuff.)
You can replug the connector at the transformer for low line voltage
as follows.
Unplug the line cord from wall first.
Move the wire at location 7 to location 4.
Move the jumper in 8&9 to 5&6. (so for easy memory, move 7,8,9 to
4,5,6 for low line, respectively, assuming they are plugged right to
begin with, remembering that 3 of my 14 machines were wired wrong to
start!)
This will move the input line voltage to the tap on both primary
windings I mentioned before.
You will most certainly see a boost in lamp brightness and flipper
strength.
There will be some who will say this will stress your power supplies,
and that may be only in that they are currently putting out lower
voltages than designed, you need to be the judge.
I will say that I have monitiored the line voltage at my home with a
max/min recording voltmeter, for over a year.
My daily voltage swing was often 108v to 110v on the low side,
averaged 114v, and never went over 121v.
I was having constant issues with flipper resets, and poor flipper
performance. Most of the power supply readings were well below
documented values, lamps were dull and dim.
I replugged all my machines as descrbed for low line voltage, and have
completely eliminated flipper resets, with vastly improved flipper
strength and brighter lamps. For example, there now is absolutely no
issue with making the Ring shots on LOTR.
The 20 volt supply is now 20 instead of 17, the 12 volt logic
regulator actually has enough input voltage to regulate at 12 volts,
G.I. is 6.2 Vac, etc.
I have had one lamp matrix driver transistor fail since replugging,
and cannot say that replugging was the reason, as I was doing some
other mods when it failed.
So you can try this low line adjustment, and see if you like it, but
you should monitor your line voltage so as not to put your machine at
risk by boosting line voltage that is already too high.

Regards,
Scott

On Oct 8, 7:10 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 8, 6:40 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

With the machine in attract mode your flippers should read almost 70
volts from any coil lug to ground. If not I would suggest digging into
the flipper power supply, likely either a bad leg in a bridge
rectifier, high resistance in connectors, or bad or miswired
transformer windings (more likely).
BTW what is your input voltage from the wall?
Of the 16 pins I recently decided to verify the transformer tap
jumpers, three were wired wrong.
There are essentially two 115 volt transformer primary windings in WPC
transformers and many others. Each of these primary windings also has
a tap about 10% from one end, to allow for line adjustment.
Both windings are put in parallel for 100-120 volt service, they are
put in series for 220-240. The full winding of each is used for the
higher input voltages of each service range (120 or 240), the taps are
used when input voltage is at the lower end of that range (100 or
220).
If the transformer is jumpered incorrectly, you could have incorrect
output voltages, for instance if only one of the two primary windings
is good on a 120 volt configuration, you would see approximately the
correct output voltages with no load, but the maximum current capacity
would be about half, causing the output voltages to sag under load.
The transformer tap configurations are shown in the WPC schematics,
your transformer should be p/n 5610-12835-00.
For 115v operation, the black wire should go to pin 1, while pins 2
and 3 should have a small jumper (preferably black). The white wire
from line input should go to pin 7, and pins 8 and 9 should have a
small jumper (preferably white).
This applies the line voltage across the whole of one primary winding
with the two jumpers putting the second primary in parallel with the
first, doubling the current capacity of the transformer output.

Check your line voltage, these jumper settings and report back.

Regards,
Scott

On Oct 8, 4:06 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I measured the voltages at the flippers under load. 42.5 left and 42.3
right. Anyway I pulled the opto boards and reflowed them. The voltage
went up marginally to about 42.8 but that could of been a result of
just about anything (the position of the sun or maybe I farted when
taking the reading). Anyway I thought this voltage is supposed to be
higher. The 50V test point TP6 on the driver board without any
substantial load is showing 63 volts.

As for position of the flippers, they are right on spec to the
alignment holes. The EOS switches do not come into play prematurely
and I am back to scratching my head. What do you guys think of these
readings?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

114.1 volts at the wall

Pin 1 is white, Pin 7 is black pin 3 to 4 are jumpered and so is 5 to
6. But the jumpers are irrelevant since they have nothing on the other
side of the connector to go to. The other side is only the respective
1 and 7 line.

Now further back right at the tranformer there is anouther connector.
It has the same configuration for white and black and has the jumpers
in as you indicated for the 115 volt operation. i.e 2 3 jumped and 8
to 9 jumped. That one actually has a multitude of wire going directly
to the transformer on the other side of the connector, so changing
those would definitely have an effect.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Took more measurements before attempting this.

I am getting a full 10 Volts more from the other coils when not under
load. They read 67 volts and the flippers are all at 57 volts. J 102
pins 5 and 6 feed J 104 Pin 2. J 102 8 and 9 feed J 104 Pin 1. These
are they only power lines to the fliptronic board. Now these same feed
from J 102 go to BR3 which produces the 67 Volts.

Now measuring these two AC inputs yields 25.5 and 28.3 for each feed.
If I measure it going into the driver board, out of the driver board
and going into the fliptronics board the readings are the same. Which
to me tells me two things.

1. BR3 can sufficiently produce 67 volts using this feed.

2. There is apparently no loss in AC voltage through the system up to
the fliptronics board.

So now here is the kicker. If the fliptronics board is not producing
the 67 volts that I think I am trying to achieve, I tried swapping the
board which gave no sign of improvment? Unfortunately I didn't measure
voltages with the swap, but am going on the assumption that the
rectified voltage from BR3 on the driver board should be rather close
to the rectified voltage on the fliptronics board since the input AC
is the same source.

Is that the case? The voltage say at the jet bumpers should be very
close to the flippers? Two different rectifier circuits but I would
think they should be similar and not the 10 Volt spread.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Measuring between the pins on J102 you suggested yields nothing. It
would appear you have the wrong pins listed. I don't believe there is
50 some odd AC volts in at J102's vicinity. The differentials across
other pins on this connector appear to be in the 25 volt range. Are
you certain the 50 volts is not from a combination of two coil
windings putting out 25 volts each? Now at the FTB at J901 I get
approximately 53 ac volts which I believe to be what I should have
going into this board.

Isolating the fuses one by one on FTB F901-904 had no effect. Checking
voltages on the pins at J907 with the connector off yields a lower DC
voltage then when it is connected. I am investing the schematics to
understand why but my understanding was that J907 feeds a constant DC
voltage to the coils and the return ground is switched by the FTB. So
I would assume straight off the pins to ground should be the same as
it is with the connector in place, for some reason it is not and drops
another 10 volts when measured straight from the pins at J907 to
ground.

Looking at the schematics, I am certain your right about J102 pins. I
don't know why I can't get an appropriate reading here. I will try
those points again tomorrow, but at any rate the 50 volts + is making
it to the FTB, and reviewing the FTB schematics I am stumped why I
have higher readings at J907 with J907 connected vs it removed and
checking the board pins to ground.


.

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