Re: Weak TZ Flippers.

On Oct 13, 6:13 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
It's becoming likely there are some wiring errors in your game.
It may well be someone has rewired the game to get partial
functionality of your flippers.
Manually trace the wires in the plugs on the following headers, do
not
apply power until all the steps are verified and corrections made if
needed.
J102 pins 6 and 9 should be Black with Yellow stripe, 50Vac from
transformer. There are also jumpers from pin 6 to pin 5, and pin 9 to
pin 8 on this plug. If not find out why. You must have this for
sufficient flipper power.
Note that your TZ manual will show this as 16Vac input on page 3-28,
but this is a mis-print, that voltage comes in on the same plug pins
1-4.

J105 (J104 could also be used, they are the same pinout), pins 1 and
2
should be
White with Blue stripe, same 50Vac as J102, pass through to
Fliptronics
board, J901 pins 1 and 3. There are also jumpers from pin 1 to pin 2
and pin 3 to pin 5 on this plug (J901). Again, if not, correct this.

And last, after rectifying the 50Vac input from J901 and passing
through 4 separate fuses for each flipper, the now almost 70Vdc
flipper power outputs at:
J907 pins 1 and 2 are jumpered by a Blue with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to the lower right flipper.
J907 pins 4 and 5 are jumpered by a Gray with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to lower left flipper.
J907 pins 6 and 7 are jumpered by a Blue with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to the upper right flipper.
J907 pins 8 and 9 are jumpered by a Grey with Yellow stripe wire, and
are DC out to upper left flipper.

Make sure nothing has been added to the flippers, such as jumpers to
other voltage sources.

For reference, my attract mode voltages are approximately 56Vac into
J102 pin 6 to pin 9, and 69Vdc from any of the pins on J907 to
ground.

Use caution, these are some of the most dangerous voltages in your
pin
and can do great harm to you or the electronics if mishandled.

Scott

On Oct 12, 10:05 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 12, 10:15 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 10, 2:27 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From your test results, it appears you are measuring your ac voltages,

each leg to ground, not the best indicator. The differential of 25.5
and 28.3 is suspicious too.
Anyway, measure the AC voltage on the Power Driver board (PDB), at
J102, between pins 8 and 5, and again between pins 9 and 6, not to
ground. I don't recall exactly, but this should be something like 50
Vac or a bit higher. There is suppose to be a jumper in the J102
connector between 8 and 9, and again between 5 and 6, to handle the
current demand, this double check will verify it is there and working.

Next measure the AC voltage at the Fliptronics board (FTB), J901
between pins 1 and 3, and again between pins 2 and 5. Here again there
should be a jumper in the connector from pin 1 to pin 2, and pin 3 to
pin 5, to handle the current demand.
The AC voltage you read at J901 should be nearly Identical to what you
saw at J102 of the PDB.
If not, there is resistance in the path through the PDB from J102 to
J104/105 and/or out through the cable to J901 on FTB.
If the AC voltage is the same at both J102 and J901 from your test,
but the DC voltage relative to ground you see on the flippers is a
great deal lower than the pops or slings for instance, then there must
be either:

A defect in the bridge rectifier circuit on the FTB, such as an open
leg or high resistance from poor solder. Which is not likely since you
said you swapped the FTB out.

Or there is a load on the FTB output, loading down the supply.
You can isolate all the flippers from the FTB by pulling J907, or try
each of the four flipper fuses F901 - F904,one at a time, if the DC
voltage jumps up close to 70Vdc, after you remove a fuse, there is an
issue with a load on that branch.

Scott

On Oct 9, 10:57 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 9, 4:13 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Frankly, I'm surprised you are not getting flipper resets with that
line voltage.The first connector you mentioned is the connection that
goes to coin door for DBV. I'm disappointed the black and white wires
are swapped, but it is not crucial, just does not match schematics.
(Also, note the power drawings often have some errors relating to this
jumper stuff.)
You can replug the connector at the transformer for low line voltage
as follows.
Unplug the line cord from wall first.
Move the wire at location 7 to location 4.
Move the jumper in 8&9 to 5&6. (so for easy memory, move 7,8,9 to
4,5,6 for low line, respectively, assuming they are plugged right to
begin with, remembering that 3 of my 14 machines were wired wrong to
start!)
This will move the input line voltage to the tap on both primary
windings I mentioned before.
You will most certainly see a boost in lamp brightness and flipper
strength.
There will be some who will say this will stress your power supplies,
and that may be only in that they are currently putting out lower
voltages than designed, you need to be the judge.
I will say that I have monitiored the line voltage at my home with a
max/min recording voltmeter, for over a year.
My daily voltage swing was often 108v to 110v on the low side,
averaged 114v, and never went over 121v.
I was having constant issues with flipper resets, and poor flipper
performance. Most of the power supply readings were well below
documented values, lamps were dull and dim.
I replugged all my machines as descrbed for low line voltage, and have
completely eliminated flipper resets, with vastly improved flipper
strength and brighter lamps. For example, there now is absolutely no
issue with making the Ring shots on LOTR.
The 20 volt supply is now 20 instead of 17, the 12 volt logic
regulator actually has enough input voltage to regulate at 12 volts,
G.I. is 6.2 Vac, etc.
I have had one lamp matrix driver transistor fail since replugging,
and cannot say that replugging was the reason, as I was doing some
other mods when it failed.
So you can try this low line adjustment, and see if you like it, but
you should monitor your line voltage so as not to put your machine at
risk by boosting line voltage that is already too high.

Regards,
Scott

On Oct 8, 7:10 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Oct 8, 6:40 pm, PinAffliction <s.to...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

With the machine in attract mode your flippers should read almost 70
volts from any coil lug to ground. If not I would suggest digging into
the flipper power supply, likely either a bad leg in a bridge
rectifier, high resistance in connectors, or bad or miswired
transformer windings (more likely).
BTW what is your input voltage from the wall?
Of the 16 pins I recently decided to verify the transformer tap
jumpers, three were wired wrong.
There are essentially two 115 volt transformer primary windings in WPC
transformers and many others. Each of these primary windings also has
a tap about 10% from one end, to allow for line adjustment.
Both windings are put in parallel for 100-120 volt service, they are
put in series for 220-240. The full winding of each is used for the
higher input voltages of each service range (120 or 240), the taps are
used when input voltage is at the lower end of that range (100 or
220).
If the transformer is jumpered incorrectly, you could have incorrect
output voltages, for instance if only one of the two primary windings
is good on a 120 volt configuration, you would see approximately the
correct output voltages with no load, but the maximum current capacity
would be about half, causing the output voltages to sag under load.
The transformer tap configurations are shown in the WPC schematics,
your transformer should be p/n 5610-12835-00.
For 115v operation, the black wire should go to pin 1, while pins 2
and 3 should have a small jumper (preferably black). The white wire
from line input should go to pin 7, and pins 8 and 9 should have a
small jumper (preferably white).
This applies the line voltage across the whole of one primary winding
with the two jumpers putting the second primary in parallel with the
first, doubling the current capacity of the transformer output.

Check your line voltage, these jumper settings and report back.

Regards,
Scott

On Oct 8, 4:06 pm, necro_nemesis <necro_neme...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I measured the voltages at the flippers under load. 42.5 left and 42.3
right. Anyway I pulled the opto boards and reflowed them. The voltage
went up marginally to about 42.8 but that could of been a result of
just about anything (the position of the sun or maybe I farted when
taking the reading). Anyway I thought this voltage is supposed to be
higher. The 50V test point

...

read more »

Ok. So I checked all the wiring and it is identical to what you have
listed.

Now readings are exactly

52 Volts at J102. (as opposed to your 56)
No loss 52 Volts at J104
No loss 52 Volts at J901
J907 putting out 63 VDC.
at the flippers I am also reading 63 VDC today.

I don't know why I got a low reading at the coils yesterday but I did
remove and replace connectors which may have had some impact, but I
also was not getting any sort of sensible reading at J907 with the
connector removed and straight to ground. I'm using a different meter
today. I suspect my other one had issues.

I am assuming that what is happening here is my initial lower wall
voltage is translating to low voltages all the way down the line. You
are running the other low voltage taps on the transformer to get the
higher voltages, are you not?

Does it make sense that 52 VAC in would result in 63 out and the
circuit performing as it should?

Does that translate to your 56 VAC input producing 69 out? It would
seem a gain of 6 volts DC for an differential of 4 VAC going into the
rectifier is maybe not just the voltage input alone giving you the
additional 6 volts. What do you think?

TIA.

.

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