Re: Black Knight won't go in to Attract Mode
- From: cherokeenewman <CherokeeNewman@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:19:16 -0700
On Sep 13, 9:25 am, kenny_ii <kenny_...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Sep 13, 1:21 am, cherokeenewman <CherokeeNew...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi all,
Newbie here,
I bought a BK a couple of weeks ago knowing that it does not work.
They guy said that it had been working but then just quit. He said
that he did nothing to it. He powered it up for me and the GI came on
but nothing else. The power cord had a cut ground so I replaced it
and the coin door has a cut ground so I repaired that. I've read
through Clay's stuff and Leon's too. I also read through Mark's Guide
to Williams System 3-7 stuff and Action Pinball & Amusement tech
articles. Basically the 2 LEDs come on and then go off and the 7 LED
Display comes up "0" then goes off. I've checked all the cables to
make sure they are tight and all looks good there. I've removed the
MPU and Driver boards and pealed them apart and put them back
together. The sound board runs through the sounds and voice words
good when I use the test switch. I can't get the diag switches on the
coin door to work. Probably because it won't do into attract mode.
I've pulled the solenoid and feature lamp fuses to prevent potential
damage. I've checked all the fuses on the Power board and all are
good and the correct amps. I've checked the output voltages for the
logic voltage and unregulated voltage on the Power Supply board and
they check good. I'm ready to pull the MPU and Driver boards again
along with all the other boards to check for cracked solder joints and
I plan on re-flowing the solder on all pins just to be safe.
Here we go...Does anyone have any other suggestions before I do this?
My hope is that it could be something simple that someone else may
have experienced.
Thanks
Rob
You guys kind of need to get to a 'known good' point before
proceeding. Clay is right, check voltages and connectors. I've done
a lot of System 7 games lately, and I guarantee you need to check the
pins on the power supply board and reflow or replace as needed. These
games develop cold solder pins from hell. I also would say you can
not expect the game to be reliable until you replace the interboard
headers and receivers. The board mounting brackets seem to fall out
of alignment, so I loosen up the bracket to backbox screws to keep
from flexing the boards when re-installing them after testing and
repair. Finally, ANY Scanbe bifurcated sockets have to be replaced.
One gotcha on replacing sockets and header pins is wickthrough. You
must use a good solder ( I use Kester 44 core with a 63/37 mix) and
soldering iron, and allow the iron to heat up the area so the solder
can draw through to the other side of the board. Dirty or corroded
throughholes, poor iron contact due to tip condition, cheap solder
with incorrect flux properties, etc can all effect this. Use a good
non residual cleaner to remove debris and dirt after removing the old
component or socket. I also push the sockets up a little when I
install them, so there is a bit more of the leg exposed on the top
side of the board. It makes it easy to see if I got good wickthrough,
or to touch up from the topside if needed. It also makes it easy the
check for pad to pad, or pad to trace shorting if you use too much
solder.
What I do with any system 7 game:
Pull all the boards, check all headers pins. Reflow or replace as
needed.
Replace the header pins for the 40 pin interboard on the MPU
Replace the receivers on the driver board for the 40 pin interboard
Replace the Scanbe socket on the 6808 IC on the MPU (I only use
machine pin sockets)
Replace the ROM sockets if bifurcated or if in poor condition.
Install all new ROM's
Replace the battery holder with a new one or a remote battery holder.
Do the switch matrix jumper mod on the driver board if needed.
Replace all the electrolytic caps on the power supply board.
I then boot the MPU by itself using a test power supply and the Leon
ROM from Clay's site. Once I get a known good boot, and it passes the
RAM tests, I put the driver board on and test it again like on Clay's
site.
After all that looks good, I install just the power supply board, and
recheck all the voltages, repair as needed.
Install the new ROMS and put the MPU and driver board combo back in.
Don't forget to insulate the bracket that supports the bottom of the
MPU. I use friction tape, not electrical tape. If you don't do this,
the receiver pins will short out against this bracket and cause all
kinds of flakiness.
On the MPU, I plug on the power and display connections only and see
if the game boots into attract mode with the displays working. If it
does, I'll do one thing at a time, solenoids, lamps, switches and see
how the game behaves each time.
If everything got fixed during testing, you're good to go.
This seems like a lot to go through, but I have learned the hard way
that shortcuts rarely pay off on the older Williams games. I can do
all the work I listed about in about two or three nights after work,
and so far, all of the games have been rock solid ever since.
K2
I just want to thank everyone, that responded, for taking the time and
offering help. Richard, Clay, Dave, and Kenny, you guys are awesome.
I will use all of this information to continue my troubleshooting.
I'll post back here with results. Special thanks to Richard for his
great site and continuing support and to Clay for his fantastic guides
and DVDs.
Rob
.
- References:
- Black Knight won't go in to Attract Mode
- From: cherokeenewman
- Re: Black Knight won't go in to Attract Mode
- From: kenny_ii
- Black Knight won't go in to Attract Mode
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