Re: Advice needed for 1964 Williams Zig Zag

On Jul 21, 6:16 pm, Below me <Pinballprow...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Al !!!
Thank you for your input, I knew I could draw you out with
type of post! Hahaha Please be advised that I am just an old pinball
player and not really that knowledgeable about how to fix them. But
luckily, I do have some friends in the hobby that help me from time to
time, or I would really be lost. As far as the pops though.... I just
did what Sam Harvey told me to do on them, and that is: Take them
apart and put them back together with the worn parts (fiber yoke,
etc.) in... Sam usually rebuilds these old Williams pops with
Gottlieb parts since Steve Young doesn't have the Williams parts to
use. I am not crazy about this idea and usually just try and reverse
the worn parts and put them back together along with anything else I
can do (like buffing up the rods and rings for instance) I need to get
a dremel tool like TimMe told me so I can clean up all my contacts too
with the little wire brush attachment. Thanks to all of you guys for
your help!!!

Agreed, a clean assembly is a happy assembly. "Spooge" is probably
the number one culprit for sluggish operation.

On the pops, the yokes really don't (relatively) move. I wouldn't
replace them unless (the metal side) is broken. But replacing coil
sleeves and stops (perhaps even plungers if they're mushroomed) will
IMHO make a marked difference. Ring and rod asseblies binding on pop
bodies can cause sluggishness too. Look for evidence of wear on th pop
body.

On other solenoids that have moving fiber links, check for slop in the
mechanism. Worn holes rob these assemblies of power that you would
much rather see on the playfield.

Many swap coils out, but once again my HO here, copper doesn't go bad.
Varnish can burn off the wire, but there always seems to be some
visible sign of a shorting coil (Large pools of molten copper, Columns
of smoke and the ever-popular black coil wrapper flakes).

I don't robotically replace components, but coil sleeves are pretty
automatic as they are difficult to gauge. The next most common in my
experience would be those fiber links.

And I think we all agree that the closer you get those contacts to
flat, clean surfaces, the stronger the solenoids will be.

AL CARGPB 33(1/3)
www.Team-EM.com

.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Evaporator coil - repair or replace??
    ... the fan turns on and off ... electrician/A/C buddy came over and said that the evaporator coil was ... His price to clean the coil is $575. ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: Dirty Sock Syndrome Trane Heat Pump
    ... cln wrote: ... you can clean it all you want, but once you get dss, you'll have it ... A new coil would probably get contaminated soon ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: Adding terminal connectors to coils?
    ... Gave me an excuse to buy a neat organizer from Lowes, fill it with a huge order of connectors from Mouser. ... soldered directly to the coils under the playfield. ... It would make removing the assemblies much easier for servicing, ... How often do you REALLY remove an assembly (personally I remove the coil in situ and then take the assembly out) for service? ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: Tech: EM Help - What is this? and how to fix it
    ... Most springs in an EM seem (and should ... actual sleeve and plunger in the solenoid coil. ... travel and concussion) in solenoid assemblies. ... I will check again for binding, but I guess I will have to wait until she is all back together. ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: Dehumidifier anti-icing switch
    ... Lately the evaporator has been icing up so that no water is produced. ... Clean the evaporator coil. ... I fix a section of furnace filter inside under the grill, ...
    (alt.home.repair)