Re: Getaway flippers and fliptronic board

HI Martin,
Thanks- I thought I'd probably done some serious damage. I've replaced a
shorted open diode on the coil, put the board back in and immediately blew
R3 on the fliptronics board. I'm slowly going mad.
I'm off now to buy more Tip36 and some resistors. I've checked the coil and
it seems to meter out ok

But I'm losing confidence as every time I put the board in something else
blows

Tony
"martin" <martin.reynolds@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1181513714.002777.48100@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Jun 10, 1:34 pm, "Tony Holdgate" <tonyholdg...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yes typo- Tip36. Good suggestion re the diodes- will try that first
Thanks John
Tony
"John Wart, jr" <johnwar...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
messagenews:fZydnRS1H_lQa_bbnZ2dnUVZ_qKqnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx



1)

grey/yellow should be on the outside, banded diode lug.
Orange/blue should be on the outside, non-banded diode lug.
Blue/Grey should be on the middle lug.

2)

Q9 drives the hold coil for the left flipper, correct

3) How are the diodes on the coil? If the old transistor fried the
diodes,
they could potentially do the transistor in again and again and again
and
again and again.

Q1 is a TIP36, not a TIP32. Both are PNP transistors, but the TIP36 is
much more robust. Probably a typo?

I would suspect the diodes on the new flipper coil first. It's not
unheard
of to get a new flipper coil with bad diodes.

"Tony Holdgate" <tonyholdg...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:466bd009@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I'm wondering where I'm going wrong.

I replaced all the flipper mechs and somehow got the power wire (grey
yellow) and the hold wire (orange blue) around the wrong way. I say
somehow as I wrote the colours down before I unsoldered.

I fired up and no left flipper. Found the fuse had popped- changed it
and then looked at Clays guide and suspected I had the wires reversed
and
changed them. The left flipper came on hard as soon as the machine
turned
on. On the Fliptronic board borrowed Q1 (Tip32) and removed and
replaced
Q3 with it(Q1 is not used on this machine) Flipper now worked but was
getting really hot so I changed Q9 which if I read right is the hold
TIP102 for the left flipper

Fired up and the flipper comes on hard again immediately. I'll need to
buy some Tip32 tomorrow as I have none so I can't change it. This game
does not have opto boards at the flipper buttons but does have the
fliptronic board

Questions
1. Is my flipper wiring now right - Power wire is on the thick
winding(grey Yellow) and Hold wire (orange blue) on the thin winding
2. Is Q9 the hold TIP102 for the left flipper
3. How come I keep burning up transistors? Its a brand new coil and
mechanism ex Marco

Any suggestions welcome

Tony
CARGPB19- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wiring the flipper incorrectly will likely destroy the transistor and
the diode. After they are gone, your slow-blow fuse will suicide as
there is nothing left for it to protect (someone tell me again why we
prefer changing transistors to changing fuses...?).

So with the flipper wiring reversed ike that, you created a short
circuit from power to both the hold and flip transistors. They both
shorted and the fuse blew.

You replaced Q3, fixing the flip coil. But Q9 (hold coil) remained
shorted so the flipper got warm. Note that the diodes on the flipper
coil have to be good or open for you to see these results - shorted
diodes will blow the fuse and transistor.

Then, you replaced Q9. But it seems that Q3 failed. There are two
possibilities: One is that something went wrong in the repair process.
The other is that the diodes on the flipper coil and the protection
diodes on the fliptronics board are open circuit. Without those
diodes, the coil can blow the transistor when it releases.

So I would replace the diodes on the coil; replace the transistors,
and check the associated diodes on the Fliptronics board.





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