Re: Soldering do's & don'ts long post

buzz66 <busby@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
: THE DONT'S LIST
:
: 1.First thing is NEVER EVER try and desolder the component from the
: board always cut the component out first, more on this later.

Strange... I do that all the time with no problems whatsoever :)


: 2.Second thing NEVER apply a soldering iron to a printed circuit board
: (PCB) for more than 3 seconds in any one spot. This goes for soldering
: or desoldering.

Good luck ever getting a pin out of a ground plane without thermals.


: 3.NEVER use spring loaded solder suckers, they suck! More on
: desoldering later.

Why not? They work great for removing compents from the board whole :)


: THE DO LIST.
: 1. Don't be a tight arse, buy a temperature controlled Soldering Iron.
: I recommend the Hako 936....AUD $ 230. Set the temperature to 375
: Degree's C.

Do learn to spell Hakko correctly. 375C = 700F is a reasonable temp.


: 2. You will also need a roll of "desoldering wick" Make sure it is the
: "Rosin type" Do NOT get the "No Clean" type. The size you are looking
: for is 2.8MM wide. A roll 1.5M long cost's around AUD $6.00. The type
: of solder you need is 60/40 Tin/Lead. A good quality pair of Flush
: cutters will make life easy when removing the components from the
: board. A pair of small surgical clamps, or tweezers is also helpful.

Solder wick is terrible for cleanups... vacuum pumps work much better and
cost per desolder pin is much lower. You actually want 63/37 Tin/Lead,
not 60/40, but 60/40 is cheaper. The metallurgy of 63/73 doesn't have
the pasty state between solid and liquid that 60/40 does.

--
Mark Spaeth mspaeth@xxxxxxxxxxx
50 Vassar St., #38.265 mspaeth@xxxxxxx
Cambridge, MA 02139
(617) 452-2354 http://rgvac.978.org/~mspaeth

.

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