Re: TECH: Corvette Engine/Motor Driver Slave Board Problem
- From: "Michael Belofsky" <mbelofsky@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2006 22:09:12 -0400
Martin:
Thank you for calling. I let the machine cool down. I removed the ground
wire to R37. Maybe I did something when I soldered the wire on temporarily.
The 2 coils are no longer hot and are moving free (as they always were).
I figured out that I could remove the plastic to get a better angle with my
angled screw driver. However, it is a piece of garbage and it does not work.
I will get an angled screwdriver tomorrow and take off the engine cover on
the sides then the engine ramp. This will expose the adjustment. I can then
see what I am doing and see if adjusting it makes a difference.
I put a screw driver in the hole and turn it. I am not sure if I am doing
anything or messing things up, so I will wait until I can see what I am
doing.
Again, I tested the "sense" pin on the connector to the hall sensor. This
seems to read about 3.4 to 3.6. This is the same reading I was getting at
R1.
I am not sure why the engine is not slaming to the right, but maybe working
on the hall adjustment thing and looking at the board under the game like
you and Cliffy suggest in the write up may help. I will get back tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help and for calling. I really appreciate this!
Thanks
Michael
"martin" <martin.reynolds@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1155033979.216905.232750@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Yes, use a wire to ground on the board. Better to do that than use the
ground braid.
Michael Belofsky wrote:
Thanks! I will try this tonight when I get home from work. One dumb
question. I assume I add a temporary wire to ground on the board or to
the
ground braid on the pinball? I assume I can add a wire from R37 to the
connector pin that says "GND".
Thanks
Michael
"martin" <martin.reynolds@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1155004783.132951.300440@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
OK, schematics in hand...
1) There are two signals from the master board that totally disable the
solenoid drivers. They are on pins 18 and 20 of the ribbon cable, and
connect to R36 and R37. If these are high, the drive transistors cannot
fire. So, for test purposes, tie R37 to ground. The end that goes to Q2
is best. The drive A solenoids are now enabled.
These will be high if the game thinks that the engine is busted.
2) If nothing happens, the following pins, when grounded, should cause
some action:
U 3 pin 12
U 3 pin 3
U1 pin 10
U 1 pin 6
I think that each one of these will drive a solenoid into action.
If the A solenoids activate, then ground R36 as well. The engine will
probably move to one side. See if the centering pot can bring it to the
middle, that validates the feedback loop.
Michael Belofsky wrote:
Do the DIP switches to the right of where the cable comes out of the
CPU
control anything related to the engine?
Thanks
Michael
"Michael Belofsky" <mbelofsky@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:Ze6dnUVNM7jxcErZnZ2dnUVZ_qidnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
When I go into test mode and test the engine. The coils do not fire.
I
put
my meter on Volts and register the voltage at the 4 prong connector
that I
assume goes to the Hall sensor. The 5 volt line reads 5.12 v. The
ground
reads 0 and the "sense" reads 2.48v on the left and 2.62v on the
right.
Does this mean anything?
I was thinking maybe the signal is not getting to the board under
the
playfield from the back box. I realized the ribbon cable from the
top
right board to the board under the game was crimped under the
backbox
when
I lifted it up. I tested continuity on all holes. (I took a wire and
pulled out two strands and wrapped them around my DMM connectors and
stuck
them into the holes in the cable. I was hoping for a few that were
not
getting contuity. I got excited because some were not getting
continuity
but I realized my DMM turned off. I turned it back on and all 26
lines
were okay.
I can't get under the ramp without a lot of work that I can't start
tonight since I have work tomorrow. I was hoping that something on
the
backbox that tells it to fire the coils is not working. How can I
test
what controls the firing of the coils from the schematics?
I removed the rest of the email to save space....
Thanks
Michael
.
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