Re: TECH: Socketing TIP-style transistors?

sure it would work you are mounting them on bottom of head, on the wood,
maybe use velcro or goop to hold the 6 screw terminal connector. Sure it
has a round hole but it has a flat bottom on the screw and on the base so it
just sandwiches the transistor leg between the two, you are mounting off the
board but if you needed to you just unscrew and put in new transistor. If
it is velcro down then when you need to pull the board the two home made
sockets can easily come with board. Trust me it would totally work, I have
fixed stuff long enough to know what would work and not. I know you wanted
to mount to the board but this is an alternative that will not give you
problems and the ability to put in a new transistor with no soldering,
resistance will not be an issue.

Trin
"Vic Ireland" <vicNOS*P*A*Mireland@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:ctvui1laoia7d5pm9g7dvi2qrqm3ljsjqu@xxxxxxxxxx
> Resistance issues aside (which were discussed by GPE earlier in the
> thread), this wouldn't work because the transistors are inline in
> rows, and there isn't room to mount even one like this, let alone two.
>
> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 02:55:46 GMT, "Bob E." <bobhsc@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>>Vic Ireland wrote:
>>>
>>> Tomorrow, I'm going to replace two P22NE10L transistors on a NASCAR at
>>> Q1/Q2 that were delivered bad out of the box (stuck open).
>>>
>>> I understand that LotR had issues with this type transistor blowing,
>>> and was wondering of I could socket this with the snappable row-type
>>> sockets and plug the transistor into the socket. Would too much
>>> current be lost? More likely to build resistance? Any forseeable
>>> downside to this? If it works, replacing the ones that may commonly
>>> blow would be fast and easy, and there would only be one
>>> solder/desolder job (the first one, where the socket was installed).
>>
>>You need to have a socket which will accommodate fairly heavy current.
>>I'm not aware of any specifically designed for TO-220 devices. It is
>>sort of a kluge, but you can use a T0-3 socket. Use a good one, like
>>the black plastic Augat ones, not the flimsy phenolic cheapies. It
>>takes a little care in mounting, but I have seen it done. The outer
>>two legs are bent down in a 90 degree fashion, inserted into the
>>socket pins, and the tab is mounted with a screw through the
>>screw-hole furthest from the pin-contacts. Of course this is going
>>through a heat-sink, with paste, the center leg is not soldered to
>>anything, the contact is achieved through the tab and screw. Watch
>>out how things are grounded to the heatsink, depending on the circuit
>>you may need to float it! As I say, not SOP but it's been done.
>>
>>--Bob


.

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