Re: Spindle turning help needed
- From: "George" <george@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2007 21:25:52 GMT
"Darrell Feltmate" <darrellfeltmate@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:_m5Xi.2719$h57.847@xxxxxxxxxxx
GeorgeYou can undercut the shoulder a bit to protect yourself against the worse circumstance, which is out of square the other way. It'll get you 90 % of what you'd get from perfect.
When you cut the tenon for the chuck make sure of two things:
1. the tenon should NOT bottom out on the chuck. In other words it needs to be long enough for the jaws to catch and short enough not to bottom out on the chuck face.
2. the shoulder must be square. The real strength of the hold comes not from the grip on the tenon so much as the flat of the shoulder against the jaws of the chuck.
Third possibility available if you have dovetailed jaws. Use the wedging action of the dovetail to help you keep the face of the jaws tight up against the shoulder. You already know that you want to make the tenon of a diameter which allows the most metal to be in contact with wood, rather than just those teeth, right?
As far as hollowing along the grain, you might consider a common cheat and bore a big hole to a bit less than the finished depth of the goblet. Allows you to work your way against the side grain. Open the area toward the rim and take successively deeper cuts bottom up and inside out. Fingernail ground gouge or full point are the ones I find best.
Pointy. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/a63b77ab.jpg
Tale in the shavings. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/5fa71f2e.jpg They're feathered on the side where the gouge exits the wood - toward the bottom - and square where it enters. That's where the taper grind helps. More support than a simple fingernail.
.
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