Re: I Know When

On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 06:11:55 GMT, "Tom Storey" <thostoreySPAM@xxxxxxx>
wrote:

to quit! I've just turned a 15" old growth cedar platter, end grain
orientation. I've shear cut and sanded to 600 grit. It was very dry. So,
there are lots of ripples, rumples, small voids and the like. I know I'll
never get a great smoothe surface on a lot of it, but...such is the reality
of old growth cedar.

So, I've oiled it with blo/thinner to pop the grain and it did. I'll let it
dry and do a little, just a little, more sanding with 600/800 wet/dry paper
and leave it at that. It will look 'rustic' but that's ok by me. After all,
it is really 'OLD'.

Now, this is frequently where I fall down - what finish to put on over the
blo? I've put on wipe on poly and had it stay tacky for weeks! Suggestions
appreciated!

I'm not a big fan of oil finishes for just the reason you're
describing- they take forever and a day to cure. While I haven't used
BLO, my inclination would be to make sure to use something that uses a
different solvent as a topcoat. Since the linseed oil is an oil, I'd
imagine it cleans up with mineral spirits. Knowing that, I'd topcoat
it with either shellac (which dissolves in alcohol) or waterborne
poly. Anything that shares the same solvent will mix with the
preceeding layer of finish, and it will take as long as the longest
cure time to fully cure- in the case of the boiled linseed oil, that
could be a long time indeed, especially if it's a little old.

Now, that's not to say that this is the best advice you can get- but
it might be the fastest way to go. Your best result will probably
come from letting the final coat of oil cure for a few weeks, and then
topcoating with whatever you like best, regardless of the solvent it
uses. While I like mixing solvent types between layers for the reason
above, there is something to be said for sticking with one type- the
top coat will melt into the one below it to some degree, and it will
be tougher than a dissimilar finish, which will be merely sticking to
the surface of the previous layer. This is usually not a problem,
unless you sand or wear through the topcoat, and then it is very easy
to spot where one ends and the other begins.
.

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