Re: Chuck
- From: mac davis <mac.davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 08:43:04 -0800
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 16:48:48 -0500, "George" <George@least> wrote:
>
>"mac davis" <mac.davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>news:25imo115ma6ce28q6g9ou0cr6n0vtinerm@xxxxxxxxxx
>> THere are several "how to" web pages, but basically, you either leave a
>> short
>> stub on the end of your work, called a "tenon", which is gripped in the
>> jaws
>> like a big drill bit,
>
>It's not the grip on the tenon but the registry of the nose of the jaws to
>the piece which counts. As with a mortise and tenon joint, the shoulders,
>where the load is spread over a wider area, is where the real resistance to
>racking lies. Keeps the piece from flopping itself loose. If you have a
>dovetail tenon, you can have the jaws of the chuck draw up for you rather
>than having to press and tighten.
>
>> or you turn a "recess" into the end of the work, which the closed chuck
>> jaws
>> open out into to grip it... sort of like expanding a sanding drum to hold
>> the
>> paper on..
>>
>
>Actually, you make an undercut mortise to accept a wedged tenon. The
>interior doesn't "grip," it draws the piece tight up against the nose of the
>jaws by wedging action. In this case the shoulders are inside the recess,
>not outside, but they still work the same way.
>
>> There are also chuck screws or pin chucks, (which I use a lot), which are
>> held
>> in the chuck jaws and screw or wedge into a small hole drilled into the
>> wood,
>> usually used on the part of the wood that will be hollowed or cut off...
>>
>
I was trying to keep it simple for a beginner, George... He can read a tech
manual later...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
.
- Follow-Ups:
- Re: Chuck
- From: George
- Re: Chuck
- References:
- Prev by Date: Re: Getting a handle on our tools
- Next by Date: Re: FS: Woodturner Pro Longworth Chuck - 1"x8tpi
- Previous by thread: Re: Chuck
- Next by thread: Re: Chuck
- Index(es):
Relevant Pages
|
