Re: Drilling cross-holes in small parts
- From: "Michael Koblic" <mkoblic@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 22:45:59 -0700
"DoN. Nichols" <dnichols@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:slrnh1heq7.a3.dnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thank you and all the others.
Are these solid cylinders, or hollow ones like pipe or tubing?
That can make a big difference.
Solid. Sometimes there is a much smaller axial hole (1/8") as well. The
purposes vary. Most frequently they are used to attach gnomons to the
sundial armature.
I think it is a function of a short piece being held in a v-groove of a
The flex is why I wondered about whether it was hollow.
drill press by its end and bending under pressure (that has been the only
way to get near it with a centre drill).
What I would do, assuming that the workpiece is solid, is to
first part off a piece of the same diameter stock in the lathe after
center drilling it and drilling it to just pass the 1/4" drill bit.
This piece should be perhaps 1/4" to 1/2" long.
Then put the workpiece in the vise parallel to the jaws, place
the drilled piece on top of it with the hole vertical, clamp the vise,
and drill through the workpiece using the hole in the part which you
made to guide the drill bit square into the centerline of the workpiece.
You won't need the center drill -- but if you get the drill bits
with split points, you will probably drill more easily.
If you're going to be doing a lot of this, make the guide from
mild steel, and case harden it so the drill bit does not enlarge the
hole as it is used.
Right. I can see myself making a jig along those lines. I have just seen a
nice one on YouTube also. I think the frequency of doing this will justify
it.
====================
If the part is hollow, what I would be tempted to do is to make
up a special jaw for the vise which has a pin which matches the ID of
the workpiece hole. This pin would stick straight out from the fixed
jaw, and you would slide the workpiece over it, and then clamp it in
place with the vise's movable jaw. Mount the vise to the drill press
table so the hole goes right where you want it -- and be *sure* to use
split point drill bits for this, as you don't have a guide to keep the
bit from walking, and normal chisel-point bits *love* to walk on rounded
surfaces.
If you want to be a bit more stable, make two jaws with short
pins to hold the workpiece properly from both ends.
If the two diameters of workpiece have different through hole
diameters, make two sets of pins on the vise jaws -- one for each size.
It probably would not hurt, if you have a lot of these to make
over time, to make up a separate vise with the modified jaws so you
don't have to be swapping jaws frequently.
Hmm ... you *could* also mill pockets just the right diameter i
the opposing jaws.
Note that I'm assuming that the ends are parted off in a lathe
so they are not at an angle. If you are using a hacksaw, you should at
least pop them in the lathe to clean up the ends before drilling.
No doubt the time will come I shall be drilling hollow cylinders and this
will be very useful.
--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC
.
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