Re: Tinning cookware Tin supplier
- From: "Martin H. Eastburn" <lionslair@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2008 21:45:04 -0500
http://www.rotometals.com/_c_36.html?gclid=CIW-p9jJ5pQCFQfNIgodLHO2Sw
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/
Grant Erwin wrote:
Mark F wrote:
etpm@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:46:13 GMT, Grant Erwin
<grant@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
etpm@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Grant-It seems to me that maybe it is tallow and not lard that can be
used on the rag to wipe the tin. I don't remember now. Anyway, since
paste flux works why bother? One more thing to remember is that when
wiping the tin pressing too hard will thin out the tin layer. I have
reflowed the tin with a torch when wiping too cold left ridges in the
tin. Practice helps. I have been soldering for 45 years, the first
time I used a soldering iron I was 7 years old. So even though it
sounds easy and is fairly easy for me it may well be that it is not.
One thing that makes soldering and tinning fail is too much heat. so
be careful.
Cheers,
Eric
Thanks, Eric! This mixer bowl is pretty large, probably 15x15x15". Only the
bottom 8" or so on the inside are bare. I think what I'd try is first of
all to get some pure tin somewhere (?) or maybe some 4%silver-96%tin solder.
I might be able to get some tallow over at Fisherman's Terminal where it is
still used on wooden boats. Then I'd use a gentle pickle inside the bowl to
clean the oxidation from the bare steel. I think I'd try citric acid and hot
water and time.
I'd do the operation in the oven. I think I'd put a bunch of sal ammoniac
powder (shaved from the block) in the bowl and put it in the oven set to 450F,
and when it flows, wipe it around with a cotton cloth and then put in a bunch
of either pure tin or the Ag/Sn solder as above and put it back in the oven
until the solder melts, then try swirling it around and wiping it out with the
same cloth. I don't think there's much to lose in this case since they've
already bought a stainless replacement bowl, so if I screw this up I don't
think it would hurt them any.
Grant
Wild bill says to use beeswax. I have heard of that too. As for the
silver bearing solder I never thought of that. I use some stuff called
"Tarasil" that's 96/4. No antimony, which some lead free solders
contain (surprised me!). The silver bearing solders are easy to apply
because they go through a slushy phase ( like that exact chemistry
term?) before they become liquid so you can see when things are going
to get too hot. I think the oven may be a mistake. I think the tin
remaining may be damaged. But give it a try, I'm curious. Once again,
body shops used to use pure tin to tin the steel before leading seams
and dents. Maybe Wesco in Bellevue has some.
Eric
I don't think you want either Antimony or Lead in the mix, nor anything
else in "solder", Silver-bearing or not. Go with pure Tin.
You can buy Tin-plating solution, but I believe it may only plate onto
less active elements, and Iron is MORE active than Tin. (Zn, Cr, Fe, *SN*,Pb,Cu,Hg,Ag,Pt,Au....) /mark
So where can I buy a chunk of pure tin?
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- From: etpm
- Re: Tinning cookware
- From: Mark F
- Re: Tinning cookware
- From: Grant Erwin
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