Re: oxy-a cutting torch questions!

gknipe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

Real nice, friendly response! My gear is NEW, and has been like this
since day one. Thanks so much for making assumptions about me! Tell
me though - when a person who comes out and says plainly that he is a
beginner and asks for advice, should you first tell him to no own or
operate it? Way to support the new guys! I'll be sure to forward
this to the frequent poster to this board that recommended me here -
he'll be pleased to hear about these "friendly" people he plays with.



What is going on is you don't have enough gas flowing out of the tip orifices. As you adjust closer to a neutral mixture the rate of flame propagation increases, eventually exceeding the rate at which the mixed gas is moving, the flame enters the orifices and then travels quickly down to the mixer (once inside, the pressure rises quickly and the flame travels faster, until the gas in the mixer effectively detonates, thus the pop sound).

It certainly sounds as if the O2 regulator is faulty. If you remove the screw entirely, then screw it back in you'll notice a point where it comes against the spring tension. After that point the resistance to turning should increase slightly and steadily, until you bottom the spring out and bind it up (bad, don't do it), and the pressure on the gauge should rise steadily with each turn of the knob. If this isn't the case, and you're sure you have an oxygen tank that has pressure in it (don't take that wrong, it's easy to accidentally get an empty tank from the supplier) and you're opening the oxygen tank valve all the way, until it seats wide open (otherwise the valve is likely to leak around the stem- wasteful at best, dangerous at worst) and you're sure that the valve will flow the required volume (cracking the valve open before fitting the regulator to the tank determines it is full, flowing and, with visual examination after cracking, clean) then the regulator has a problem.

Teflon tape is a pretty common thing to see in the valve fitting, I suppose they have a damaged stem and don't want to replace it, but it can cause flow problems along with leaks.

John
.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: good technical kegging reference
    ... Suppose I close the valve on the regulator and open the co2 ... The gauge reads some pressure. ... connect the keg to it the diaphram/spring opens again and eventually closes ... It would probably be more accurate to set the regulator screw with the keg ...
    (rec.crafts.brewing)
  • Re: Know about plumbing?
    ... >Well it's very similar except the regulator on the secondary circuit is ... >3 bar not 4.8 bar ... (talking about inlet pressure reducing valves) ... Well that is the job of the TPR valve which usually vents out the top ...
    (sci.electronics.misc)
  • Re: Drip Irrigation
    ... you can put a globe valve after the regulator to drop the pressure and adjust the flow rate without having to change the regulator. ...
    (rec.gardens)
  • Re: RVQ Regulator Problem
    ... I connected the BBQ regulator. ... I put my finger on the outlet and opened the valve. ... I slowly removed the pressure on ...
    (rec.outdoors.rv-travel)
  • Re: Pressure cookers: an update
    ... > always leaked more steam than I would like. ... > quality pressure cookers are expensive ... > The article (and other pressure cooker tips) is discussed at ... > rather than a spring pressure regulator valve. ...
    (rec.food.equipment)