Re: 10" Atlas lathe purchase trash/treasure?

On Jun 7, 12:05 pm, Rex <burkhei...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
NYtrill...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
ilve got a rust remover i dont remember what brand it is, and i havent
gotten a chance to try it yet. The rus is actually not as bad as it
looks, no pitting at all, just surface rust. I think most of it will
come off with rust remover and a touch of scotchbrite. There are some
nasty nicks in the ways though... I was thnking about getting a lathe
bed from ebay or something if i found one, but that would require me
to fit the carriage and tailstock to it, Would you have to align
your headstock casting to it as well?

Not a problem on anAtlas. You can swap beds and bedstocks by simply
bolting them together. I am sure you can also fine-tune the alignment
with shims, but few people bother. They work fine without that.

I got the carriage disasembled tonight and cleaned all the gears, the
only thing i couldnt get apart was the crossslide screw. im not too
sure how it comes out.

You may have to drive a pin out of a collar inside the cross slide.
But I don't really remember either.

I also got the backgears off but i cant seem

to fingure out how to disassemble that either.

The operating lever (right side, cast pot-metal) is held on with a pin
equal in length to the diameter of the hub. drive it out. Between the
hub and the cast-iron shaft boss is a detent ball and a spring. Watch
out it doesn't fly away.
Be aware that the "setscrew" in the middle of the backgear casting
is not a setscrew, but an oiling access screw.

The above is based on a hazy recollection from several years ago, and
I've done all this to a 618 since then. So take all the above with a
small grain of salt ;)

thank you very much, I managed to figure out the cross slide and such,
it seems i wsas just being too gentle because i got it apart tonight,
along with the compound and the restt of the apron.... (lots of little
taper pins and woodruf keys)

The backgears werent too bad but i didnt bother tearing it down
completely i just got the two brackets off cleaned up everything and
put it back together, ill wait till i reassemble the lathe to adjust
it and tighten the set screws.

The only thing stiopping me now is the spindle. I need to get that off
and havent found any pins or other such things that are obvious.

I was seriously considering getting the bed reground and if its as
easy to reassemble the headstock as you say it is, it may be worth
it.... Do you know if there are locating pins on it like there are
on the apron and all the apron gear housing? If so, it should be a
pretty simple process to reattach it and realign it. The only other
thing that would have to be taken care of is the tailstock, i would
need to grind that down to match. and im not sure i have the ability
to do that.

.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Subassembly Kinematic mounting
    ... Tom Hubin wrote: ... common breadboard with 1/4-20 holes on one inch centers. ... ball-end screws that screw into 1/4-20 holes, ... You now have positioning pins to relocate the mating piece in exactly the same spot. ...
    (sci.optics)
  • Re: Bent Pins, Lost Screws
    ... and I can't find the darn screw. ... > of the laptop, possibly around the region of the touch pad. ... I bent 2 of the pins on the old drive. ... Carefully straighten the pins with a set of STRAIGHT needle nose pliers ...
    (Fedora)
  • Re: Looking to identify an unknown electronic component...
    ... pin device, something variable about it b/c there's a slotted screw ... Check with an ohmmeter across the outer two pins of the 3-in-line - ... Also check the other coil (the two ... The screw adjustment in the top will screw a ferrite core down into ...
    (sci.electronics.repair)
  • Re: Broken Garmin contact pin on rear of 12 XL
    ... I agree is not easy, but I confirm I was speaking about the socket, the only ... one having pins. ... >>screw, and to insert a screw in place of the pin. ... And not everyone has access to a microlathe. ...
    (sci.geo.satellite-nav)