Re: Compressor Q's
- From: "Wild Bill" <wb_wildbill@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 14:16:41 -0500
A couple of things to start with.. the pressure switch isn't a regulator. A
regulator is a non-electrical part.
The pressure switch settings don't govern starting load, as the term
unloader applies.
You'd be wise to get the manuals for the compressors. You'll be able to
determine if the pumps have mechanical unloaders for no-load starting, with
the manuals in front of you.
A pressure unloading method used on many compressors utilizes a small
diameter air line from the head outlet cavity to a small unloader valve that
is opened by a lever sticking out of the pressure switch (when the switch
reacts to the high pressure cutoff limit).
The reason air doesn't continue to bleed out the little unloader (air)
valve, is because the tank air is held by a check valve (sometimes located
at the pump outlet line connection to the tank/receiver).
Some industrial duty compressors have mechanical unloaders integrated into
the pump head design.
WB
metalworking projects
http://www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html
............
"Proctologically Violated©®" <entropic3.14decay@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
message news:%wAKh.844$w01.661@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Awl--you
First, a gloat-- I got *four* Quincy compressors! :)
Now, the ungloat:
All are in various states of disrepair. <sigh> :( :(
The goddamm pulleys weigh 45 lbs each!! (dual belt)
But, apropos of a previous post on motor rpm, starting load, etc, how do
know if you have "unloader valves"?pressure
Are these part of the compressor, part of the regulator assembly? Can
something like this be added?
What is that loud "CHOW" when the compressor shuts off? Unloader valves?
On "real" compressors, like my buddy's millenium old Kellog-American, the
regulator has two springs, one for low pressure start, one for high
cutoff, so you can, among other things, vary the duty cycle, it seems.oil,
On budget compressors, like my HD Husky (which I still like--cast iron,
QUIET!), the regulator has two springs, but they appear to be simply twocontacts,
springs in parallel, which raise/lower start/stop pressures together. Is
this correct?
What I did, as a sort of prophylactic electrical hedge, was 1. wire the
motor for 220, and 2. remove the motor from the regulator start
and instead put the motor on a decent sized relay, so at least theregulator
contacts don't carry that high inrush current alluded to previously.a
I also took off all that belt shroud crap, so the spokes of the pulley act
little bit like a fan on the compressor housing.
Pulley/belt/blade guards are for shop sissies. :)
If I had my druthers, I'd have a shop w/ one of them ancient overhead
belt/pulley systems.
Now DATS a shop! :)
--
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entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
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