Re: Rust can be your friend...
- From: "James Riser" <jriser@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 18:07:29 GMT
To answer some of your questions/concerns...
How do I remove rust? Well, it all starts with selecting the correct type
of rust. After looking at and restoring a number of rusted machines, I have
learned to look for a certain type of rust. My Sheldon 12" shaper was a
rust bucket that had been stored outside under a tarp, my 11" Sheldom lathe
had a rusted solid taper attachment, the old Elgin lathe was rusty, all 4 of
my metal spinning lathes were rust buckets. All of these machines are
reliably supporting me right now. The key to rust removal is knowing what
type of rust can be removed and knowing exactly how precision a machine you
actually need for your intended work. All of my cleaned up machines exceed
my needs for precision. You want only surface rust with very minimal
pitting, if any. Try to avoid pitted items unless the pitting is on
non-critical components like external surfaces. You do not want pitted
lathe beds for example.
To remove most of the rust I use an angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel.
I use it dry - no oil on the rust at all. The loose rust just flies off of
the surface when cleaned up dry. If oil is on the rust, the surface rust
will be much more difficult to remove without possibly digging into the
metal surface (which you want to always avoid). How the wire wheel is
approached to the surface of the metal is critical. I approach the rusted
surface with the wire wheel almost parallel to the metal to be cleaned. The
wire wheel merely brushes off the dust without digging in. Approach edges
so that the wheel runs off of them - not into them. After the rust is
removed, I will go over the surface with a much finer wire wheel - this time
I lightly oil the metal surface. The resulting metal surface looks almost
pristine after cleaning with paint thinner. This wire wheel work is filthy
and protective clothing, dust mask/respirator, etc. should be worn.
As for workability of the pantograph currently being restored....
I have already tested the panto arms, spindle, etc. for full functionality.
All bearings have been cleaned/repacked, balls replaced as needed, etc. The
panto arms are tight and will work fine. Anything of concern now is only
cosmetic.
The drive system...
I replaced the original 3 phase motor with a single phase one as I do not
know exactly whaere I will be plugging in the finished machine. This makes
things easier on me. I used the original wiring as needed to hook up the
new motor. All of the extra 3 phase boxes and bulk were removed to
streamline things. The motor has a 2 step pulley which drives a stepped
idler pulley which, in turn, drives the spindle. There are 2 cloth woven
belts in the drive system. This gives a speed range from 3800-18000 rpm on
the spindle. The spindle with its precision high speed bearings was
obtained off of ebay. It is in excellent condition. The finished
pantograph will operate like the original - same drive system etc.
Jim
"James Riser" <jriser@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:xUT4g.4110$DT5.2473@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
For hunters of bargain priced machinery, rust can be your friend. A layer
of rust on a machine really helps to keep the price down. Quite
servicable machines can be recovered from rust by the cheap machinist. Go
here to see my latest rust bucket project:
http://www.JamesRiser.com/Machinery/GortonPantograph/Restore.html
Enjoy.
Jim
.
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- Rust can be your friend...
- From: James Riser
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