Re: Using A Rotabroach Cutter In A Lathe
- From: Searcher7@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 26 Feb 2006 10:46:15 -0800
Thanks everyone.
The lowest speed of the lathe is 100rpms and it is rated at .47hp. I'd
just have to decide on what coolant to use.
As far as the wrench handle riding on the compound. I assume that you
are referring to the compound slide. The Rotabroach cutter has a two
inch max. hole depth, so if I want to use it for thicker material that
may pose a problem.
What about making a special tool holder? Though a Morse Taper #2 tool
holder is on my shopping list, perhaps a tool holder can be made
*specifically* for the cutter itself. That way I can use the power feed
to get the consistency I'd need for drilling Stainless steel.
And I wouldn't have to buy one of those expensive and hard to find MT2
Rotabroach Arbors. It appears that the only place to get them is
abroad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7591467410
But if anyone know of another place I'd appreciate a pointer.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
******************************************************************************************************
Paul K. Dickman wrote:
I have never used a rotabroach in a lathe, but I think you need to
understand some things about Morse tapers.
The Morse taper in your tailstock is held in place by friction.
As your cutting tool approaches the tapers diameter, the tools friction
eventually overcomes the friction of the taper and spins it. This will screw
up your tailstock socket, the taper on the arbor and probably your cutting
tool.
Drill presses solve this problem by using the tang on the end of the taper
to prevent rotation. Lathes (because of the screw that feeds the tailstock
barrel) don't have this feature.
Were you cutting something else, I would say you might get by using light
cutting pressure. Stainless, however, requires a "Low speed, High feed"
approach to cutting. The object being to make each tooth cut deep enough to
get under the work hardened surface left by the preceding tooth. This
strategy requires you to push the cutting tool into the stainless as hard as
you can and not let up on the pressure until you are through.
Bottom line, if you have enough horse power, it will work but you need to
devise an additional strategy to keep the arbor from rotating. Milling a
couple of flats on the arbor, clamping a wrench on the flats and letting the
wrench handle ride on the compound is one approach.
Paul K. Dickman
<Searcher7@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1140969245.609849.162530@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Going with recommendations here I recently picked up a Hougen Magnetic
drill with the intent to drill 1"+ diamter holes through 4" square,.
1/4" thick stainless steel(316L), and I'm just now discovering that
there is an MT2 Rotabroach Arbor that one can use to seat the annular
cutters to a lathe tailstock.(I have a Micro-Mark 7 X 14).
That would save a lot of time.(And would have saved money if I were
aware of that sooner).
So I figured I'd ask if anyone here has had any experience using a
Rotabroach(Annular) cutter in a lathe.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
.
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