Re: Flycutter arrived


"Bill Schwab" <bschwab@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:4LJDf.3122$Nv2.987@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
snip----
>
> Dumb question: the tip on a DTI is friction fit such that one moves it
> to full deflection and keeps pressing?? I was told to do that, and it
> works, but it bugs me to apply "large" forces to a precision instrument,
> especially while at the end of its travel. Is there a better way to
> move it?

Not with any of the models I've used. While it may appear harsh, it
doesn't seem to do them any harm. I've been using my two B&S BestTest
indicators for years, likely since you was just a kid- :-) -------and
the only problem I've had with either of them is a crystal that has come
loose from age. For lack of a different opinion, I'd suggest they're
intended to be used that way.

>
> > You likely know that you
> > should turn the spindle by hand only, never under power, and turn it
slowly
> > as it goes across the T slots, so you don't disturb the setup, or damage
the
> > indicator.
>
> In one setup, I recognized that I would have parts instead of an
> indicator if I had hit the power switch; I didn't do it, but it would
> have been easy to destroy it. Then I came very close to snagging it on
> a clamp. Shortly after that I bought the Baker, just in case ~:0

<VLG>

> I saw Robin's post (thanks!!), but share your concern about a stray chip
> or something causing trouble. I do not yet have 1-2-3 blocks, but I do
> have some inexpensive but very nice v-blocks that probably would work.
> I will probably start with the bare table and try the blocks if I have
> trouble.

Truth be known, using almost anything, including the nice little round block
that I made years ago, when I had access to heat treat and grinding-----is
nothing short of a PITA. The block in question has a short, flat area,
than has a gentle taper on the edges, accompanied with a nice radius, so the
contact glides easily without stubbing. Takes more time screwing around
with it than it does contacting the table, even when I mount the indicator
so it approaches the slots from the side instead of trailing off as I
suggested. When it comes down to the 1-2-3 blocks, I don't really see any
advantage----the indicator still has to climb and drop off edges----although
you do gain the benefit of bridging the center of the table (the T slot),
where you might desire your reading. I simply move over enough so the
spindle CL is on one edge or the other. Works for me, and has for years.

>
> I have this in mind for "later". There are a few dings on my table
> (they were there when it arrived), but nothing terrible, and to the side
> so they do not interefere with where I usually mount my vise. I have
> done setups spanning that area, but have been able to avoid them.

Even being careful, it's hard to avoid the minor dings in tables. A dropped
parallel, a chip getting caught under a vise, even when you're exercised
great care-----it happens. Unlike many, I rely on air for moving chips
off my machine. That doesn't work well when you're set up in your house,
but I've always had the luxury of a dedicated shop. Those of us that have
worked in commercial shops do that pretty much routinely. Air was always
on machines in any job I held, and certainly has been on my machines as long
as I've owned them. You have to exercise some caution, and it's messy,
blowing things where you'd prefer they not go, but it really helps in
keeping things clean where it matters. My favorite method has always been
to blow or wipe things off, then do the palm feel thing---it's a very good
way to know that the table is clean of anomolies.

>
> Another factor is that I do not trust my current file for this. I need
> to get one that is more appropriate and then age it some.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill

Again, my pleasure. Hope some of my ramblings are helpful.

Harold


.

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