Re: Stainless Steel Project Help



On 1 Dec 2005 19:31:36 -0800, Searcher7@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> I know there would be a lot of waste
>involved, but I'm wondering about the plausibility of taking a 1-1/2"
>diameter, 4-1/2" long stainless steel rod and turning it into a 3/8"
>diameter rod with a 1-1/2" diameter ball at one end.(All other parts of
>this project will be made out of other materials).

Make the ball separately and silverbraze it onto the rod -- or drill
it, tap it, thread the rod and screw it in with some Loctite.
>

>***So I am now considering starting with a bench-top drill to make 8
>holes in the 4" x 4" stainless steel plate in that 3" diameter
>configuration, so I can just drop in the ball bearings.(Perhaps mill a
>small circular trough to connect the holes anyway to help when I may
>have to use some 3-in-1 oil). I don't know if 303 would still be the
>recommendation for this, and if there is a good drill bit for making
>these bowl-shaped holes for the bearings, but the machien and tooling
>needed would be a lot simpler for me.

Drill 1/8" dia pilot holes a bit deeper than 3/8". Then use a ball
end mill in your drillpress to make the little bowls. You could get
by without the pilot holes, but the ball-end mill will work better if
you have them.

You'll want something considerably more substantial than 3-in-1 oil.
Consider way oil, chain saw bar oil which stays put like way oil, or
a molebdynum disulfide or teflon grease. It'll still have
considerably more friction than if the balls could roll in a trough,
but lube can make a big difference. White lead would work great but
I suppose it's verboten unobtanium now.

With your light loading, another thought might be to make some little
graphite rods that would go in the pilot holes and project just a
couple of thou above the bottom of the bowls. This might result in
much lower friction. Maybe drill the pilot holes clear thru and tap
the bottom part, put the graphite rods in the holes, make your bowls
with the ball end mil (that will result in a similar cavity in the
graphite rod), then raise the rods a coupla thou with setscrews from
the other side.

You might also drill 1/2" holes, make or buy oilite or teflon bushings
with 1/4" holes thru them, press them into the holes and "ball" them
with the ball-end mill in a drillpress. Chrome steel balls might run
real nice on oilite bushings like this.

Another possibility might be to forget the cavities or trough, let
the balls roll between two flat plates, keeping the balls captive
with a disc carrier with holes in it. It might be made of delryn.

Happy inventing.

.



Relevant Pages

  • Re: Your Favorite Install Tool?
    ... You use the tubes because of the insulation. ... You drill the 3/8" holes with a long 6 foot flexible drill bit. ... Not using the zip it rod, using the glow rods which are thinner and more ...
    (alt.security.alarms)
  • Re: Boom construction
    ... Forget the scribed line - what you really need is for all the holes ... through the boom to be parallel. ... The other thing that I use that works well is a rod which I clamp to the ... from a tent pole) and I visually line the rod up with the drill while ...
    (rec.radio.amateur.antenna)
  • removing water heater elements
    ... I have one of those heater element sockets which have holes in the ... socket holes and a 4' thick-walled hollow bar on that as a breaker, ... just keeps on bending the 3/8" rod where it meets the socket... ... Worst-case I might be about to drill the darn thing out, I suppose, ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: IJ Help
    ... Its to prevent balls from getting trapped. ... Just drill out the holes ... and install it... ...
    (rec.games.pinball)
  • Re: Shot 37
    ... > We are required to post a score anytime we play more than a few holes. ... When made on a golf course in an area in which an inactive season ... non-conforming balls; ...
    (rec.sport.golf)