Re: metal building insulation options?



Don Foreman wrote:
On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 12:40:27 GMT, "Alan Raisanen"
<hawkflight@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Hi Group.
I have a 30 x 40 foot metal polebarn which I use for a shop. The back third, about 30x15, has been internally partitioned and fiberglass insulated, and I heat it with forced air from a wood boiler and heat exchanger. It stays quite cozy in the winter (upstate NY), and I use it as my machine shop. Welding and storage occur in the unheated portion. I would like to add some insulation to the front portion so I can keep a little heat on in there. Has anyone got any experience with the radiant barrier types of insulation systems? I am seeing rolls of the aluminum-foam-aluminum insulation being quoted with a 14.5 R value. For example, see http://www.insulation4less.com/
This stuff looks easy to install, being only 1/4 inch thick or so, but does it really work or are they being optimistic about the numbers? I could go with a conventional fiberglass system too, it will just be more work to install it.


Al


I'd test a sample of that foil/foam stuff before I bought much of
it. I'm very skeptical of their R value rating.


They may support those ratings by testing with radiant heaters that
heat objects in the space while air temp stays relatively low. I
strongly doubt that it has R value of 14.5 in terms of thermal
resistivity.


How to test: insulate a small enclosure with the stuff. Tape the
corners and seams to eliminate leaks. Put an electric heating
element, as perhaps a hair dryer element or even just a power
resistor, inside the box, along with a thermometer or thermocouple
probe. Shield the thermometer or probe from radiant heat with a piece
of metal tubing open on both ends.


Feed a measured small  amount of power to the heater -- maybe 5 watts.
An approximate but very simple  test could be done with a 5-watt
nightlight as a heater, if the thermometer is well-shielded from
radiant heat from the bulb while being open to the air inside the box.

Run it for long enough to reach equilibrium temperature -- might be
several hours. Equilibrium is when the temp inside the box stops
rising.


The R value will be

R = dt * area * 0.293/power where dt is the temperature rise inside
the box above ambient area is the total area of the box's surface and
power is the power (in watts) fed to the heater. Amps * volts.


If the box was  1 foot on each side (6 square feet total) and the
heater was fed 5 watts,     dt would be 41 deg F if R is really 14.5.

I've not included the R value of the cardboard here so the rating will
be a bit generous.



That would be a *great* science fair project. Too bad my kid is in college...


.



Relevant Pages

  • Re: metal building insulation options?
    ... and I heat it with forced air from a wood boiler and heat ... >like to add some insulation to the front portion so I can keep a little heat ... Shield the thermometer or probe from radiant heat with a piece ... Feed a measured small amount of power to the heater -- maybe 5 watts. ...
    (rec.crafts.metalworking)
  • Re: Keeping warm in the shop
    ... Then heat it however makes you happy. ... machines on the floor warmer (as they conduct heat from the warm slab ... Sure - heating or cooling a room requires insulation in order to be ... In floor radiant heat is not pure radiant heat. ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Looking to switch from Radiant to baseboard heat
    ... Its not that the heat is not good. ... copper pipe radiant heat in the ceilings in the main living area. ... 50's they were not too worried about comfort and they certainly did ... If you have proper insulation above the ceiling area, ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: Ping Morris
    ... insulation needn't be costly - and are certainly less costly in the long ... almost exclusively geared towards producing homes with walls and roofs ... whatever room temperature (any temperature you care to choose that might ... Physics help please - heat storage ". ...
    (rec.woodworking)
  • Re: Heating a workshop/garage
    ... To minimise the risk of condensation on machines the temperature should be kept reasonably constant but that's expensive if you heat to a comfortable working temperature. ... An estimate of heat loss showed that most was lost through the steel un-and-over door, but the manufacturer did not supply insulation panels for it (sidebar - should it not be a requirement to make these available? ...
    (uk.rec.models.engineering)