Re: question



George,

I have tried the sodium hypoclorite, but no better result got. I also tried
Borax, and got better results. Although there are also some bubbles. Maybe
few, but bugger than before.

The links you sent to me are great (many thanks). I have found something
relevant (at least for me). I have read that the mold must have no "black "
traces, because it indicates organic rests. The molds I tried, all of them
have small rest of "black" powder.

I preheat my molds only for 10 minutes, mybe this was not enough. Besides, I
was using a torch to do it. Maybe it's not the best way to do it.

I have done 3 more molds and they are now drying. I will try to make a small
furnace to let heat my molds for more time (using charcoal). Maybe it's
better to buy a resistance.....will go tomorrow to the shop.

Of the 3 molds, one have an especial vent hole in the side. Will try when
dry. Will post the result.

JRL


"F. George McDuffee" <gmcduffee@xxxxxxxxxxxx> escribió en el mensaje
news:9ic1h1hbkespvt88ku310g0p7hjv8ll9j4@xxxxxxxxxx
>I would not worry about "pure" sodium hypochlorite or grinding up
> the tablets.
>
> Test with a very small piece of the tablet in the molten metal to
> make sure you don't have something strange that may explode. If
> this works ok, use a half tablet to start. Use tongs to get it
> to the bottom of the metal so the chlorine will bubble through
> the metal and combine with the hydrogen. This will boil out as
> white smoke. The chlorine and other noxious gasses are colorless
> and as these are poisonous, you must not inhale.
>
> There are better degas and flux materials available than the
> swimming pool additives, but these are harder to get and more
> expensive. Unless you are a commercial foundry, the extra price
> for the specific degas/flux compounds will not be offset by the
> lower metal loss and lower [minor] sodium contamination of the
> melt caused by using sodium hypochlorite.
>
> If your feed metal is dirty or heavily corroded, you can try
> adding regular salt to the charge before you melt it. This will
> add sodium to the melt, which is not generally a concern for a
> home foundry, and will selectively deplete certain alloying
> elements such as zinc. It will however separate the dirt/oxide,
> and float it to the to where you can skim it off. It is
> generally helpful to keep a layer of flux/slag on top of the
> molten metal until just before you pour to protect it from the
> oxygen and hydrogen in the air. As mentioned before a layer of
> crushed charcoal on top of the metal will also help. I have
> never tried it but some people use crushed glass as a flux which
> melts and forms a protective film. I know of no reason you can't
> use crushed charcoal and salt at the same time.
>
> The slag/flux you skim will be a noxious material and should be
> disposed of properly, such that animals and small children can't
> get to it as it can cause chemical burns and eye/skin irritation.
>
> see
> http://members.chello.se/vikingbronze/casting.htm
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/Metals.htm
> http://ww2.cowtown.net/mikefirth/metalctr.htm
>
> for more information and info about proper pouring temperatures.
>
> Good luck and let us know how everything turns out.
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 22:17:54 GMT, "jr"
> <lehmann[quitthat]@telefonica.net> wrote:
>
>>Ok. I have the tablets available now in my home. First I must check if the
>>sodium hypochlorite I have is pure.The tablets are of 20 gr, will need to
>>cut in smallest pieces. I will try it tomorrow.
>>
>>Many test to do together....:-)
>>
>>Thanks. I will post the results after the test. Thanks also for the
>>translation, but I understand better the english..:-)
>>
>>I'm able better to read and understand than to speak/write, this is the
>>result of being reading english text all the day..:-)
>>
>>As far as I see, the server has still not forward the images I posted 1
>>hour
>>ago....:-(, surely they will took more time, even though it is only 100 Kb
>>in size (both together).
>>
>>see you all tmw.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Greetings from Spain
>>JRL
>>
>>
>>"F. George McDuffee" <gmcduffee@xxxxxxxxxxxx> escribió en el mensaje
>>news:rr3vg1p2ne4g9q9on9hcs6951e7gnpb2li@xxxxxxxxxx
>>> That your casting was flat on top and did not have a pronounced
>>> "pipe" appears to indicate a significant amount of gas [hydrogen]
>>> is dissolved in the melt.
>>>
>>> Your ISP [telofonica.net] indicates you are located in Spain. In
>>> the United States, home swimming pools are very common, and thus
>>> the chemicals needed to prevent the growth of algae and bacteria
>>> are widely sold. Assuming swimming pools and the necessary
>>> maintenance chemicals are also widely used in Spain, you should
>>> be able to buy sodium hypocholorite, as this is the active
>>> ingredient in most swimming pool powder and tablet treatments.
>>>
>>> Note that this is the dry powder and adding a water solution of
>>> sodium hypochlorite to molten metal will result in a steam
>>> explosion with the likelihood of serious personal injury.
>>>
>>> In the United States, swimming pool treatments are commonly
>>> available in both powder and tablet form. The tablets tend to be
>>> considerably higher in cost on the weight basis and offer no
>>> benefit when used to degas metal.
>>>
>>> Buy the smallest possible bag of powder pool treatment that
>>> indicates sodium hypochlorite as the major active ingredient for
>>> this test. You will need a short piece [50 m/m / 2 inches long]
>>> of one-half inch [13 mm] nominal i.d. pipe. This should be what
>>> is called black iron pipe in the US meaning it is not plated and
>>> has a black oxide finish. This is commonly used here for gas
>>> pipe.
>>>
>>> To degas your metal, put a wad of soft paper such as newspaper in
>>> one end of the piece of pipe, tamp the pipe full of the sodium
>>> hypochlorite powder and put another wad of soft paper in the
>>> other end of the pipe. When your melt is up to full pouring
>>> temperature or slightly hotter, and wearing face mask, apron,
>>> gloves and other protective clothing, thrust the pipe and powder
>>> to the bottom of the crucible using tongs or a welded handle, and
>>> gently stir. The powder will decompose, liberating chlorine gas
>>> that will combine with any hydrogen in the molten metal. Be sure
>>> not to breathe any of the smoke that comes off the melt when you
>>> do this, as it is poisonous. This will also create a quantity of
>>> slag or residue that will float to the top of the molten metal.
>>> It may be helpful to cover the molten metal with a layer of
>>> powdered charcoal to protect it while melting and after
>>> degassing. You will need to skim this off before pouring the
>>> casting. Stir the metal when you degas and skim off the slag to
>>> insure you have a good mixture of the metals as these may want to
>>> separate.
>>>
>>> If this helps but does not eliminate the bubbles in your casting,
>>> get a bigger piece of pipe and use more powder. Be advised that
>>> the chlorine will also combine with any zinc in your brass/bronze
>>> and will lose excessive amounts of metal if you over-degas.
>>>
>>> [computer translation follows/la traducción de la computadora
>>> sigue]
>>>
>>> Que su echada era llana en cima y no tenía que una "cañería"
>>> pronunciada parece indicar una cantidad significante de gas [el
>>> hidrógeno] se disuelve en la fusión.
>>>
>>> Su ISP [telofonica.net] indica usted se localiza en España. En
>>> los Estados Unidos, casa las piscinas que nada son muy comúnes, y
>>> así se venden los químicos necesitados prevenir el crecimiento de
>>> algas y bacterias ampliamente. También se usan ampliamente
>>> piscinas de la natación arrogantes y los químicos de
>>> mantenimiento necesarios en España, usted debe poder comprar
>>> hypocholorite de sodio, como esto el ingrediente activo está en
>>> la mayoría el polvo de la piscina que nada y tratamientos de la
>>> lápida.
>>>
>>> Note que éste es el polvo seco y agregando una solución de agua
>>> de hypochlorite de sodio al metal fundido producirán una
>>> explosión de vapor con la probabilidad de lesión personal seria.
>>>
>>> En los Estados Unidos, los tratamientos de la piscina que nada
>>> están normalmente disponibles en los dos el polvo y forma de la
>>> lápida. Las lápidas tienden ser considerablemente más alto en
>>> costo en la base de peso y no ofrecer beneficio cuando acostumbró
>>> a metal del degas.
>>>
>>> Compre la posible bolsa más pequeña de tratamiento de piscina de
>>> polvo que indica hypochlorite de sodio como el ingrediente activo
>>> mayor para esta prueba. Usted necesitará un pedazo corto [50 m/m
>>> / 2 inches] de media pulgada [13 mm] i.d nominal. Esto debe ser
>>> lo que se llama cañería de hierro negra en el significado
>>> americano él no se chapa y tiene un acabado del óxido negro.
>>> Esto normalmente se usa aquí para la cañería de gas.
>>>
>>> Al degas su metal, ponga un taco de papel suave como periódico en
>>> un extremo del pedazo de cañería, tamp la cañería lleno del polvo
>>> del hypochlorite de sodio y puso otro taco de papel suave en el
>>> otro extremo de la cañería. Cuando su fusión es a abatanar
>>> vertiendo temperatura o máscara de la cara ligeramente más
>>> caliente, y desgastado, delantal, guantes y otra ropa de la
>>> protección, empujó la cañería y empolva al fondo del crisol que
>>> usa tenazases o una asa soldada, y suavemente el movimiento. El
>>> polvo descompondrá y liberará gas del cloro que combinará con
>>> cualquier hidrógeno en el metal fundido. Está seguro no respirar
>>> nada del humo que se cae la fusión cuando usted hace esto, cuando
>>> es venenoso. Esto también creará una cantidad de slag o residuo
>>> que flotarán a la cima del metal fundido. Puede ser útil cubrir
>>> el metal fundido con una capa de carbón de leña empolvado
>>> protegerlo mientras fundiendo y después del degassing. Usted
>>> necesitará desnatar esto fuera de antes de verter la echada.
>>> Revuelva el metal cuando usted el degas y desnata fuera del slag
>>> para asegurarlo tiene una mezcla buena de los metales como éstos
>>> puede querer separar.
>>>
>>> Si esto ayuda pero no elimina las burbujas en su echada, consiga
>>> un pedazo más grande de cañería y usa más polvo. Se aconsejado
>>> que el cloro también combinará con cualquier cinc en su
>>> brass/bronze y perderá cantidades excesivas de metal si usted
>>> encima de-degas.
>>> ============================
>>> On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 20:53:40 GMT, "jr"
>>> <lehmann[quitthat]@telefonica.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Yes, could be, but I don't see how to put a new degassing tube in the
>>>>mold,
>>>>this is a very easy and simple mold. Mmmmm, As I have just said in my
>>>>last
>>>>post, I will make another test tomorrow,now it's 23:00 here...:-).
>>>>
>>>>I will try to add some vents to let the gass go out. I have read the
>>>>plaster
>>>>is not so porous, so I will try it.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks.
>>>>JRL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>"jk" <klessig@xxxxxxx> escribió en el mensaje
>>>>news:vfvug15sqtom67vdbc14106hunlbhe1jj8@xxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>
>>>>> Could be you are not degassing?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "jr" <lehmann[quitthat]@telefonica.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Mmmm, I think it would be not the problem, because the mold is an open
>>>>>>mould, so there is a lot of metal over it. Think it's a cylinder, so
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>mold only have an entry. I will try to draw with characters:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>******** *********
>>>>>>******** *********
>>>>>>******** *********
>>>>>>******** ********* Think in the figure as a box with
>>>>>>a
>>>>>>cylinder hole in the middle.
>>>>>>***********************
>>>>>>***********************
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The * are the mold, and the [spaces] the cavity of the mold. I fill it
>>>>>>all
>>>>>>with melt bronze. The result piece I get is like that:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>--------------------
>>>>>>--------------------
>>>>>>-------------------[]
>>>>>>--------------------
>>>>>>-------------------- Think in the figure as a
>>>>>>Cylinder
>>>>>>--[]-----------------
>>>>>>---[]-----[]---------
>>>>>>--[][]----[]------[]--
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Being the [] holes in the bronze resulted piece. Of course the "-" are
>>>>>>solid
>>>>>>bronze. It seems there were captured some bubbles in the piece.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I will try to make some pictures right now and post here.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks
>>>>>>JRL
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>"F. George McDuffee" <gmcduffee@xxxxxxxxxxxx> escribió en el mensaje
>>>>>>news:tsnug11fnni5qdctg4s2ucgo3o37pshogt@xxxxxxxxxx
>>>>>>> On Fri, 26 Aug 2005 16:01:50 GMT, "jr"
>>>>>>> <lehmann[quitthat]@telefonica.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>Hi,
>>>>>>>>I'm just trying to make a mold with plaster + kaolin (25% + 75 %) to
>>>>>>>>hold
>>>>>>>>bronze. The mold works fine but the final piece have a lot of big
>>>>>>>>bubbles
>>>>>>>>inside the bronze , so the piece it's totaly unusable.
>>>>>>>>any idea?
>>>>>>>>Thanks
>>>>>>>>JRL
>>>>>>> ==============
>>>>>>> That the bubbles are inside the casting indicates that these may
>>>>>>> not be bubbles but rather voids left when the metal solidified
>>>>>>> and shrank. Water expands when it freezes but metal shrinks by
>>>>>>> quite a large amount in volume when it changes from liquid to
>>>>>>> solid. In casting it is common to provide a large volume of
>>>>>>> liquid metal in the mold above the casting [the riser] to feed
>>>>>>> metal into the casting as it cools and solidfies. The sprues and
>>>>>>> runners that feed the metal into the mold cavity must be large
>>>>>>> enough so these will not solidify first so that additional liquid
>>>>>>> metal [from the riser] can fill any voids in the mold cavity.
>>>>>>> Design and creation of molds to allow ouring of sound castings is
>>>>>>> an art. Lindsay books has a good selection. see
>>>>>>> http://www.lindsaybks.com/prod/sub/foundry.html
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> jk
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


.



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