Re: TIME TO TAKE MATTERS INTO MY OWN HANDS
- From: "Peter W.. Rowe," <rec.crafts.jewelry@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 22:23:55 GMT
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 15:05:07 -0700, in rec.crafts.jewelry "The Space Boss"
<drsmith666@xxxxxxx> wrote:
FlameNwind wrote:
Got pix? It sounds like a bit of soldering if all it has on it is a wire
loop on the back. You could probably use a general 2-part epoxy glue to
achieve what you are talking about (particularly since this doesn't sound
like a very expensive piece.) A picture might help elicit other
suggestions.
Hi there, well the jeweler said using solder or even a laser would heat
the pendant up and possibly distort the laser :(
The Epoxy sounds intriguing thought. It wouldn't interat with my skin
would it?
Now, if that works then I just gotta figure out how to saw the little
loop off the bottom.
Solder WILL heat up the pendant. So what? Brass can take heating. It will
likely need some finishing, like polishing, etc, again, after traditional hard
soldering, but this should be routine for any jeweler. Unless there is
something unusual about the finish, such as applied resins or paints, or
enamels, or glued on stones, or something like that, just the fact that it would
be heated is of little consequence. It no doubt was heated already, in it's
past, while being manufactured.
One of a laser welder's big advantages is that it does NOT heat the piece up
much. A little, perhaps, but while welding, you hold the piece just in your
fingers. If it gets too warm to be comfortable, you slow down, or cool it with
compressed air. Laser welders would make this type of repair pretty much
childs play. If the jeweler has one, and still does not wish to do your repair
for you, then either he doesn't understand his laser and how to use it, or he's
simply unwilling to do lower priced repairs. Either way, I'd have some words I
might use to describe such a jeweler, but the group FAQ prohibits personal
attacks, so I won't use them (grin).
Now, the word "idiot" comes especially to mind, even despite my reticence in the
last paragraph, when you say he says welding brass would heat up his laser.
Sheesh. The machine only knows what power settings you're running at. It does
not know, nor interact with, the identity of the metal you're welding. Sure the
thing heats up. Any high powered machine does so to an extent whenever you turn
it on. Laser welders are designed to deal with it quite well. Using high power
settings for a long time can lower the service life of certain parts (the flash
lamps, in particular) but brass, as it turns out, does not require power
settings any higher than welding on karat gold alloys. It's pretty easy. In
fact, if you'd like your pendant laser welded, email me off-group, with a valid
email return address, (I've not checked the one you post from. If it's fine
already, good. Otherwise, use a valid one for an email reply). I'll put you
in touch with a jeweler with a laser welder and very reasonable prices. Would
likely cost postage both ways, plus a small fee. might end up less than you're
bothering with buying epoxy or soft solder and risk mucking it you trying it
yourself.
Epoxy, once it's set, does not normally interact with skin for most people. The
uncured resin is indeed a problem. But once cured, most people have no trouble
with it. Skin contact, though, is why I mentioned to avoid the five minute
types. They are not, over time, waterproof, and perspiration degrades them much
more quickly than it does the slower setting types. With that said, though,
there are a few people who WILL react to epoxy resins, even when fully cured. If
you have a problem with skin sensitivities, avoid epoxy unless you're sure it's
OK for you. The same should be said of any "soft" solders that contain any
lead. Tin is fine. Lead is not. That's one reason to avoid the electronics
type solders. You can get tin/silver solders (they contain a few other things
too...) that are lead free, and these usually are OK with skin contact.
Sawing off the ring is normally done with a jewelers saw. This is like a
woodworkers coping saw, except the blades are much thinner with finer teeth (and
the saw frame itself is different, clamping the blade ends, instead of the
coping saw's use of cross pins in the blades.) Miniature hack saw style blades
can sometimes be found too, that would work. The main thing is that most
likely, a standard hack saw or wood saw would be so wide a cut that too much
metal would be removed if you're trying to reuse the loop for the top. If not,
and it's just being scrapped, then just clip it off with side or end cutters,
and use a small file to smooth the cut.
HTH
Peter
.
- References:
- Re: TIME TO TAKE MATTERS INTO MY OWN HANDS
- From: FlameNwind
- Re: TIME TO TAKE MATTERS INTO MY OWN HANDS
- From: The Space Boss
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