Re: Rheostat

HI Moon

On Tue, 2 May 2006 18:06:39 -0400, "Moonraker"
<moonraker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


"Adrian Brentnall" <adrian-the papers and the trash@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote
in message news:8jjf52l6gimps24116f2g4ioi32pcui8p0@xxxxxxxxxx
HI Moon

On Mon, 1 May 2006 16:03:40 -0400, "Moonraker"
<moonraker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


"Jeff Diebolt" <jddiebolt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:dws5g.14$bo2.147601@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Why no rheostat with the weller?

The Weller 100 Pro has temp controlled tips, avail at 700*F, and 800*F
temps. There may be another temp available, too.

A controller would serve no purpose. The iron itself does the
controlling,
much more accurately than a controller ever could. My iron is ALWAYS
700*F,
never 1000 or 1200, so when I pull it out of the holder, I know exactly
how the solder is going to react to the iron and the joint.

I'm sorely tempted by the Weller 100-watter.
Currently I use a 75w (non-tc) Weller, but it suffers, as you'd
expect, from getting too cool too often when in use - or too hot when
it's sitting in the stand - eats bits, too.

The only thing stopping me is the cost <g>
Yet again, we over here in the UK seem to be paying over the odds for
equipment - xe.com reckons that the Dollar to UK pound exchange rate
is about 1.8 to 1 - and yet something like the Weller 100 costs about
the same over here in Pounds as it does over there in dollars....!

I have 240 - 110 transformers in the studio - I'm inclined to import a
110V USA iron and some spare bits (also 'pounds for dollars') and go
that way.....

In another life I worked in electronics, and the difference between
using a non-temp-controlled iron and the 'standard' Weller 50W
temp-controlled iron was astounding.... - in terms of reliable
soldering and consistency of temperature, also bit life.

Trouble is - I'm still saving up for that wet-belt sander.....<g>
(only joking !)

http://www.stainedglasswarehouse.com/

I've bought quite a little bit from these people. If you get on their
mailing list, they have a "private" monthly sale. This past month they had
the Weller 100 on sale for $58, (~33GBP)so I ordered a spare and some tips
along with some replacement tips for a couple of Inland irons I carry in my
truck.. I don't know about their international policies or the like, but
they do respond immediately and ship promptly.

They've still got the same offer - I've just been looking on eBay &
there are reliable-looking suppliers charging about the same price
there.... - so it's a matter of checking out shipping costs.

I was a bit surprised to see that stainedglasswarehouse.com suggest
that
<quote>
Regardless of this feature, using a rheostat with this or any iron is
recommended. It's easier to adjust the temperature with a rheostat
when needed than to change the tip
<unquote>

I've never tried it - but I'd imagine that using a rheostat (like a
lighting dimmer, right ?) with a temp-controlled iron will be pretty
ineffective ... I could only guess that it would actually slow down
the iron's 're-heat' time - as the actual temperature control is
taking place via the magnetic switch at the bit... odd....?


I don't understand the obsession with high temp iron tips. As long as the
thermal mass of the tip is sustainable at a temp great enough to melt solder
at 560*F, what is the point of the overkill in temp? Using a 1000*F tip
proves nothing.

I think I agree with you - I'd rather have a consistent, controllable
temperature on an iron instead of something that practically glows -
can't see the advantage in that at all...?

Except I guess Brady gets some testosterone buzz from
beating his chest and making everybody think he has enough business that
"saving" 20 minutes on a project is somehow important. As if....

It's been my experience that you _can_ have 'too much' heat when
soldering - it was certainly true in electronics (though I do realise
that's a different ball game altogether !)

Sure - you need enough heat - but why 'twice enough'...?

Been doing some 'kiln carving' today - experimenting with plaster
moulds and letting the glass slump over them - great fun - but another
place where you can have 'too much heat'. Aiming to get the glass to
thin down over the plaster pieces - did this so effectively with one
piece that it went straight through ! Ah well - it's all learning <g>

Regards
Adrian
Suffolk UK
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