Re: How much mash water does spent grain hold, per pound, on average?
- From: "Bill Crisafulli" <wiscer_remove_this_@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2005 17:45:36 GMT
"John 'Shaggy' Kolesar" <spam@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:slrndef681.120.spam@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 00:49:51 GMT, <wiscer_remove_this_@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Hmmm. I have the B3-1550 system from BB&MB. The design of the lauter
tun
> > seems to be pretty good. Maybe I am not understanding the lautering
process
> > that well. My understanding is that as you add water at the top and it
runs
> > through the mash, the gravity of the liquid coming out will slowly drop.
My
> > lautering process took about 20 minutes last time, which was faster than
I
> > wanted it to run by a factor of 2, but I don't have a very good way to
> > figure out how much to open the valve on the tun, I guess I need to use
a
> > ruler and measure how long it takes to collect the first gallon in the
> > boiler and then adjust from there.
>
> A 20 minute fly sparge for a 10 gallon batch is *REALLY* fast. That's
> probably the cause for your low efficiency. A standard rule of thumb is
> that you want a 45 minute sparge for a 5 gallon batch. You probably want
> to shoot for at least that long with a 10 gallon batch. Running a fly
> sparge too quickly will definitely leave a lot of sugars behind.
>
> > But anyway, it seems to me that if I added less water, and allowed the 4
> > gallons remaining in the tun to completely, or mostly, drain, then the
> > runnings which came out at the end would be lower in SG than they were
in
> > this last batch because I would be getting to the water that was added
later
> > in the process which will carry less sugar.
>
> The water running through the grain bed is what rinses the sugars out of
> the grains and into your wort. Using less water means that you will be
> doing less rinsing, which means that you will have a worse efficiency not
> a better one.
>
> It's not draining the tun dry that gets the sugars out, it's the action of
> the sparge water running through the grain that gets the sugars out.
>
> > Promash has my efficiency at 50%. I ended up at 1.044 OG after the
boil. I
> > may not be using ProMash right though, I set the batch size to 10
gallons,
> > but I collected 11.5 gallons of wort. On the recipe screen, there is a
Wort
> > Size box which is grayed out and it too says 10 gallons. I'm not sure
if I
> > should put 11.5 gallons in for batch size since that's how much I
collect to
> > boil, and I'm not sure how to activate that Wort Size field, which would
> > seem to be where I should put 11.5 in there. I'm not sure whether
ProMash
> > is asking for the preboil SG or the post boil SG in that screen...
>
> The SG that you use for your efficiency calculation should correlate to
the
> volume measurement you are using. IOW, if you are using your pre-boil
> volume (11.5 gallons in your case) then you also need to use the pre-boil
> SG. If you are using your final post-boil volume (10 gallons), then you
> need to use the post-boil SG. Mixing the two will mess up your
> calculation.
>
> IMO, your sparge is 2X or even 3X too fast which could easily explain
> a 50% efficiency.
>
>
> John.
Yeah, I knew the sparge was too fast, I was doing other things while the
sparge was going on and wasn't looking at the clock. I was surprised when I
asked my brew buddy what time it was and calculated a 20 minute sparge.
Waaaaay too short.
But I did see the response that said 1/10 gallon per pound of malt. Which
means I should have 2.35 gallons of wort soaked up in 23.5 pounds of malt.
Which is kind of what I was thinking it would be, but my actual results
didn't seem to match. Of course, I wasn't measuring how much sparge water I
added so it was hard to know for sure.
To your point of the sparge water doing the rinsing, I understand that, but
leaving 4 gallons of liquid in the tun would seem to mean I am leaving a lot
of sugar in that water, regardless of how much sparge water it took to get
there.
Is it the general principle that you all just keep adding sparge water,
keeping the water level above the grain, until you have collected your
target boil volume, and then you shut the tun valve, or do you make an
attempt to drain the tun towards the end of the sparge?
Thanks for all the responses!
.
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