Re: help Dawn climb a 12

"Dll" <me@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:49381lFmpba0U1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
1) Quit your job and work out every day until you can actually climb
5.12.

Not neccessary. Most people climb 12 while holding down full time
jobs.

You will need to be smart about your workouts. Few have the combination
of
discipline and free time (go figure), and as such, per another thread,
there
are very, very few true 5.12 climbers out there. You will loose this
ability within a month or so of regaining a normal, balanced life.

Wrong again. There is learning, both conscious and neural,
and confidence, that you won't lose. Doing subsequent 12s
is easier.

2) Baring the time to develop actual talent, siege the f***'n thing until
you can call it your own.

True, but Nate's spin is typical of old bitter trad climbers.

Consider the Olympic gymnast, or figure skater... do you think
they were able to do their routine the first time they tried it?
Not a fucking chance. No, they *worked* it until they could do
it smoothly, but they are still right on the edge; they often fall
in competition.

Working a route is, as Sharma puts it, learning. Learning to
take something hard and make it easy. It's pretty amazing
how hard a route seems the first time I get on it, and how
easy it seems on the redpoint run.

And be sure that the gratification of doing a route will be
proportional to amount of effort you put into it.

You will find many a compadre at sport climbing
venues across America. Pretty much every one I've visited has been
relatively soft for the grades. Throw a dart. Check into a nearby
super-8
or something. When you succeed, don't forget to spray. Repeat until
either
you slip into a coma or discover you were bred for more interesting
things.

Nate is too hard to bother with sport climbing.

- Lord Slime


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