Re: Electrical Advice...
- From: iBoaterer <blah@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2011 09:11:44 -0400
In article <9f40f3Fl6U1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, evil@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 10/5/11 5:14 PM, Canuck57 wrote:
On 04/10/2011 11:05 PM, JustWait wrote:
On 10/4/2011 10:45 PM, Canuck57 wrote:
On 04/10/2011 1:59 PM, X ` Man wrote:
I'm thinking of upgrading to a larger standby generator, probably a
The generator will be approximately 50 to 60 feet away from the house
circuit breakers. The wire will run under the main level floor and
the lower level ceiling.
I want as little current drop as possible. The generator provides
One of the contractors under consideration wants to use aluminum wire,
but I am more than willing to pay the premium between aluminum and
copper. I don't have an electrical "handibook" available.
What I am wondering:
1. Is 4/0 copper wire heavy enough?
2. Anyone know a supplier for about 70 feet of the stuff?
Our local electrical suppliers don't seem to want to provide a length
P.S. I'm really only interested in replies from those with an
educational or professional electrical background.
So is this for your grow op so the police don't see your utility bill?
In any case, for 1), current heats wire not voltage or wattage, so what
is the voltage as to calculate the current 17KW can generate? Amps
generate the heat. 220 or 115? With that size I will assume 220. 17K/220
= 77.3 amps. And I like being cautious, say AWG 3 for 220, 3/0 for 120.
Probably industrial supply shops, as consumer hardware stores will not
carry this. As it gets worse. You need special tools to bend it, you may
need conduit and I strongly suspect local ordinance would require an
inspection or at least a licensed electrician.
Tonight I had to install a new shallow well system for a friend in
Essex. Pretty straight forward, pump, expansion tank, and new conduit
tube from the knife switch above on the floor joist, down to the cutoff
switch... to code.
We noticed the breaker supplied an outside light and an outlet too, so
we had to put in an new breaker and 12 ga, Romex to supply the pump on a
separate line, also required by code.
Electrical and plumbing is not really all that hard, about 20 years ago
I with some help changed my home over from knob and tube to modern day
romex, gpf switches, etc..;), three years ago I redid the plumbing in
our place, including a new section of baseboard heating in one room. For
the water side of the system I used Pex pipe and Sharkbite fittings up
to the floors under the appliance or sink, and went with hard copper
from the floor up... I actually enjoy doing that stuff, But I guess my
bud could have waited for someone with "educational or professional
electrical background" and spent $700 for a $300 (parts) job we could
easily do ourselves. <snerk>.
I agree normal wiring isn't that hard. However 4GA isn't normal wiring
neither is 70+ Amps and futzing with the mains. Have that short out and
your face could be copper or aluminum coated. And if it burns his home,
and no inspection, it isn't covered.
It isn't a wall socket or light switch job.
It also needs to be inspected even if you do it yourself.
For example if it supplies the house, he needs a switch panel between
the fuse box and the incoming mains. Which also means coordinating
having the power off to insert an approved switch.
There are a half dozen licensed electrical contractors in my immediate
area who do this sort of work. The electric and plumbing have to be
permitted and inspected. I'm sure some people might not bother with the
permits and do the work themselves, but...if your house blows up or
burns to the ground, your homeowners' insurer may inquire about the
any electrical or gas line work done in the house, and if you have to
say you did it yourself without the proper permits and inspections, I
suspect you'll be S.O.L., insurance-wise.
So then why are you worried about wire size, etc. That will all be
dictated by CODE, idiot.
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