Re: Holy shit!

On Sep 16, 8:12 pm, John H. <salmonb...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 16:51:59 -0400, jim <mo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
John H. wrote:
On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:54:53 -0400, "Raphael" <raph...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

"John H." <salmonb...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:efptc41qaicfaqh6j50impm78ush94inoi@xxxxxxxxxx
Gone four days and back to 853 messages. Over 300 from one individual.

Had a great time at Virginia Beach. Saw lots of boats. Will post pictures
of some when I get the chance.

Air conditioner kept popping the circuit breaker when the temp was
hovering
around 95 yesterday.

Anyone know anything about air conditioners?
--
John H.
Seems to me that when you first had this problem we talked about undersized
extension cords, undersized house wiring, defective breaker in RV, and low
voltage. As I recall, your AC started working and the issue was dropped.
Someone said head pressure will increase as ambient temp increases. That's
true. So now you have at least 5 potential reasons why you are popping the
breaker in the RV. The reason the breaker popped at the campground may be
different than why it popped at your house, but let's assume the reason is
the same.

I think I have laid out the situation properly. If not, correct me.

I know there are at least 4 or 5 guys here that would be able to put you on
the right track.

Would you like some help to resolve the problem?

The problem may have been due to the heat, but I don't remember the
temperature when I first had the problem. Most folks thought the problem
then was caused by having the trailer connected to house wiring (20 amp).
But this time I was connected to 30 amp. I'm thinking that outside temp may
be the common theme to both problems.

Sure!

John,
 A 20 amp circuit when properly installed can handle a 20 amp load, and
a 30 amp circuit can handle a 30 amp load. That doesn't say the source
is providing proper frequency or voltage. What we are thinking here is a
voltage sag for various reasons, or short cycle might have caused higher
current draw due to not enough time for excessive head pressure to bleed
off between cycles. Your AC unit may or may not have built in short
cycle protection or it might not be working.  You can test this by
running the AC and quickly shutting it of then on again. There should be
a 3 to 5 minute delay before the compressor starts again. The conditions
that precipitated your failures may not be easy for your dealer to
replicate. He may have to ask you to leave your rig at his service
department for an extended period for troubleshooting, and even then he
might not see the problem if it is caused by a power source.
 If I were in your shoes I would take the time to learn about AC wiring
and problem solving. Also an overview of how the air conditioner works
would help you a lot.

Jim/Raphael

The manual tells me to get it serviced on an annual basis, and that's about
it. There is no information on wiring, etc, except for the installation
instructions. Apparently, Dometic, which makes just about everything for
travel trailers, doesn't want anyone other than itself messing with the
innards of the AC. I did check the coils and filters, but they've been used
hardly at all and were very clean.

I understand about the voltage variances. I'll take a multimeter next time
I go out. I agree that the dealer won't be able to replicate the
conditions. They will check that the output is 20 degrees less than the
input. If that is true, then it passes and no further checks are made. I'm
thinking the trip to the dealer's would be a waste of gas.

I just tried running the AC, turning it off, and then back on. The
compressor did not delay in starting. So apparently the short cycle
protection is non existent or not working.

Tomorrow I'll give the Dometic folks a call and see what they have to say..

Thanks for the feedback, Jim.
--
John H.

All I can say is...........unfrickenbelievable.

'nuff said.
.

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