Re: need stuffing box advice,..
- From: Joe <steelredcloud@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 07:58:42 -0700
On Jul 31, 9:45 am, Joe <steelredcl...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Jul 31, 9:18 am, Joe <steelredcl...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Jul 31, 3:05 am, ray lunder <non...@xxxxxxx> wrote:
This boat has been out of the water for about 10 years and had
rainwater inside it almost up to the transmission.
Does anyone know what kind of stuffing box this is? It has a grease
fitting but no wadding at all inside as you can see from the first
picture, "stuffingbox", taken with a mirror.
Access is almost impossible but I did manage to get the box apart and
most of the surface rust scrapped off. This is not something you can
tighten or loosen every time you use the boat.
It's an IP23, made in Cows, England, mid 80's.
Is there supposed to be wadding of some kind in there?
What do you ask for? Do you add wax or something to it, make a roll
and poke it in there?
Our site is real slow and these pictures don't seem to show up to the
correct scale in IE but here's what the stuffing box looks like
Here's the outside of the box:http://www.rockisland.com/~zephyr/boat/boxclose
Few more of the general situation:http://www.rockisland.com/~zephyr/boat/alleywidehttp://www.rockisland...
Thanks for your time.
You have an English style set-up with a greaser. Most likely you do
not have a cutlass bearing but a bronze bearing in the tube end. It
has enough clearence 10 thousands over the shaft to allow grease to
coat the surface and escape out the stern of the tube. I have the same
set up, and was told it's because of all the sand in the canals in
england & europe eat up rubber cutlasses very fast. Yes the front
should have a few wraps of packing, perhaps it was removed to let rain
water drain out the tube. Looks like you will have to remove and
replace the packing box compression studs. If the shafts is covered
with grease it may be in good condition in the tube. If so just turn
down the section of the shaft in the stuffing box a couple thousands
of an inch to remove all pitting and rust, once you re-pack it it will
work fine. Get a new greaser.
The grease lubricated gland is a main support bearing for the
propeller shaft and is used in installations where a bearing is
required on the inboard end of the sterntube. This gland can also be
used as a shaft log where it acts as an intermediate bearing between
the shaft strut and the gearbox, forming a watertight seal at the
point where the shaft enters the hull.
The gland body is lubricated by means of a screwdown greaser injecting
grease into greaseways machined into the bearing surface of the gland.
As this type of gland utilizes replaceable packing it should be
installed in the boat with sufficient clearance between the gland
studs and the gearbox coupling to permit the replacement of the
packing without uncoupling the shaft.
In installation the gland should be tightened equally on the studs to
ensure it does not bear on the shaft. The gland should not be
overtightened as this will cause overheating and will wear the shaft
in way of the packing and destroy the sealing area.
Joe- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
PS: Your stuffing box is bronze, get a small torch and heat up the
bronze in the area of the steel rusted studs..should come out easy
enough that way, and with the tight area you have to work in go to
Sears and get you a set of Craftsman Bolt-Out? Damaged Bolt/Nut
Remover Set. They work in ratchet wrenches.
Joe- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Oh...just one more thing..before you do anything check the other end
of the shaft for play. Try to move it ..up..down..port stbd ect..You
want zero movement. If you have any play go ahead and pull the bronze
sleeve bearing..easy way is to pound it out with a hard wood pole from
the inside if you have room once the shaft is removed, with a smaller
diameter wood pole you can usually side it in from under the tranny,
if not you can rent a bearing slide hammer type puller from an auto
shop. I replaced mine, lucky I had a spare aboard when I bought the
boat, and had another spare machined before I used the spare...10/1000
over seems to be a standard clearence.
Heat the tube with a torch and put the new bearing on dry ice to get
it back into the tube.
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