Re: Wheel building Q of loctite variety

On Dec 28, 8:44 pm, landotter <landot...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Dec 28, 8:20 pm, Ozark Bicycle



<bicycleatel...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Dec 28, 7:02 pm, landotter <landot...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On Dec 28, 5:39 pm, "Squat'n Dive" <snd...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

The wheel shaped wobbles by alexrim that came with my allez sport
developed loose nipples
with some regularity. i haven't managed to get the ones on hand built
dt rr 1.1 loose (yet?).
my question is this: are nipples typically red loctited? on hand built
wheels? if not why not?

Squat'n Dive aka Too Dumb To Tighten His Own Spokes

Nothing wrong with even the cheapest Alex rim if built right. I built
some X404s last year, single wall cheeeeep, and they held up fine.
Heck, my utility bike has single wall Rigidas which are even shittier,
and after bringing up to tension, and seating the spoke in the hub
flanges the first night I owned it, the wheels have been bang on,
despite hauling loads of 250# between rider and dog food. No locking
compound used. I'd also wondered if it was panacea till I built half a
dozen wheels properly and found that they never went out of true in
normal use. That's the thing--factory wheels are under tensioned to
begin with and if you bring them into the average shop for truing,
they'll just take out the wobble, but not actually build up the
tension to stabilize the wheel. Spoke tension creates a durable wheel,
not thread lock. However, I could see it perhaps being of use on the
NDS on a highly dished Campy rear, maybe.

Anyhow, I'm not alone in this opinion--the average schmuck's wheels
need tension, not goop.

I'm wondering what kind of database you are working from here:

Zark, let's be honest--you're mostly nice, but this post is about your
inner cocksucker coming out as it is want to do.

"Want"? Perhaps you were thinking of "wont"? Do try to be precise when
you're being critical.



*How many wheels have you actually built?

6 built. Dialed, tensioned and trued? A couple hundred.

Six it is.



*How many miles on said wheels?

Well, on one set, near 30K. That was the city bike. Roller brake so
the rims got no wear.


Was this a wheel set you built? And what were the other details?



*How many of said wheels were rears built on 'standard' (i.e., not
OCR) rims with 8/9/10 sp spacing and 130mm o/l/d?

I've built two 8spd rears that have done over 10K w/o a truing. I've
tuned many more.

On the two you built, what rims were used?



I know you wanna pull rank--you can likely build three in the time
that it takes me to build one--but don't try and claim that basic
solid wheel building is some sort of black art--it isn't.

No black art being claimed. But this is a fact: the tension
differential DS v NDS on a contemporary highly dished rear wheel is a
problem; if the NDS spokes are tensioned high enough to not loosen,
the DS tension is so high that the DS spoke holes can have cracking
failures. Some decry the design of current rims ("bring back the
MA-2!", they whine), some come up with weird NDS spoking (e.g., radial
NDS spoking) patterns and some use a mild threadlock. This problem is
what led to the OCR rim designs.



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