Re: Another DIY Light Question
- From: RonSonic <ronsonic@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 05 Dec 2005 14:04:34 GMT
On Sun, 4 Dec 2005 10:52:19 -0700, "JJ" <piperjj@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>AAAHHH, darn it, I knew that part of my question would be mis-interpreted.
>I am an electronics technician, so yes, I know all about Ohm's Law, etc. (I
>just don't know much about Halogen lamps and the amount of heat they
>produce). What my buddy was pointing out, when I showed him my original
>parts kit for this project, was that the insulation on the wires (the part
>of the wires that will be inside the housing) will melt from the heat. NOT
>heat due to current flow times resistance, but rather the heat from the damn
>lamp. He suggested I would have to buy one of the ceramic
>sockets/connectors that are meant for these bulbs, which also have the
>heat-resistance wires coming out of them. After that wiring has exited the
>housing, then I could use just about any wire for the rest of the distance
>to the battery.
>
>Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and ideas. Looks like I'll just
>end up leaving the front of this light exposed to the elements, as going to
>a glazier for a specially cut piece of glass seems like too much trouble
>(and expense).
Soldering regular 18ga zip cord to the pins of the lamp works fine. They are a
little hard to solder since the alloy was designed more for it's thermal
characteristics relative to glass than solderability, but scrape it clean, use a
flux and you'll be fine. (don't clean lamp sockets or vacuum tube pins with a
file) If you want a socket, it will be on the shelf at your local electrical
supply shop. The ones contractors go to for lamps and fixtures. MR11 and 16 come
with their own front glass.
This is all so bodgeable it's boggling. there are vast levels of
overcomplication surrounding this.
Ron
.
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