Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: "Proctologically Violated©®" <entropic3.14decay@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 14:26:57 -0400
OK--
It's going to be a cupla days or so 'til I can get to this car, when I'll
get the info and start this sleuthing process.
God-god willing, if I run a jump to the compressor, I'll see dat hub turn,
and feel some cold air blow!
I'll then have option of sleuthing the true culprit down, or just keeping
the jump and running a switch inside to the cabin area.
It is, after all, a 1991 car!
But, it runs sweet.
Thanks again!
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"Comboverfish" <comboverfish@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1183061433.761981.111380@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I'll try and get this info, but hopefully I'll make some headway with the
above.
I would think that listing basic car designations would be the easiest
part of this whole diagnostic procedure.
What I'm going to do first is pull that wire from the compressor, and see
if
it is energized, with the car (presumably) calling forA/C.
1. If it IS energized (with no jump on the pressure switch), then I know
I
have either a bad clutch or a bad compressor.
2. If it's not energized, then I know the problem is further upstream
someplace.
3. If I then find the pressure switch, jump it out, and this wire
becomes
energized, I'll have two choices:
a) bad pressure switch, or b) loss of refrigerant,
I'll be able to distinguish which by seeing if cold air blows or not.
4. If I jump the pressure switch, and this wire is not energized, then
presumably there is still an electrical problem further upstream,
possibly
theA/Cswitch itself on the dash. That's a pita.... Hopefully it'll be a
fuse or that MG relay.
And,
5. I could always run a jumper from the battery to the clutch, see what
happens.
Good so far?
Sound diagnostic strategy, yes.
A lot of this depends on being able to tell if the compressor is actually
engaged or not!
I can tell if I hear it go on and off, but how would I tell the state
if
it's *always* on, or always off??
Sorta not easy to tell (for an amateur) with all the engine noise, etc.
Look at the clutch hub with a flashlight while the engine is running.
It's easy to see, right under the alternator, it has its own belt on
Corollas. You will see with a strong flashlight whether or not the
clutch is turning.
One more dumb Q:
What exactly is a kick plate??
Look at the frontmost, rightmost, lowest possible spot in the
passenger footwell. There is a small plastic panel in that area that
covers up some wiring, relays, etc. Example: if you were to 'kick'
your right foot to the right while seated in the passenger seat you
would hit the kick plate (unless you are Emmanuel Lewis or Billy
Barty).
Toyota MDT in MO
.
- References:
- More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Proctologically Violated©®
- Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Comboverfish
- Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Proctologically Violated©®
- Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Comboverfish
- Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Proctologically Violated©®
- Re: More A/C-electric Qs
- From: Comboverfish
- More A/C-electric Qs
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