Re: More A/C-electric Qs


"Comboverfish" <comboverfish@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1183054608.305809.326850@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Jun 28, 12:54 pm, "Proctologically Violated©®"
<entropic3.14de...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Greatly appreciate your help.

Few Qs:

Where might I find shematics? Someone mentioned the Mitchell series at a
library. Mebbe the service dept would photocopy sumpn for me? Anywhere
else?

Besides buying the info, are those two free resources not enough?
You can even get the exact factory info back to 1990 at
www.techinfo.toyota.com
for $10 per day. Print off what you need in .pdf form but it helps to
have Acrobat Reader 8.x.

Is the compressor below the alternator? Are any wires going to the
compressor necessarily for the clutch?

Yes. THE wire is for the clutch. No other "compressor" wires on
Corolla-esque cars.

How do I tell high pressure side from low pressure?

Only for the purpose of identifying where the switches are, the high
pressure line is smaller diameter. NOW, if you know that little about
A/C, please don't even think about servicing any refrigerant holding
parts (don't unbolt/unscrew anything at the compressor, condenser,
drier, evaporator, at any lines or on any lines). Don't touch it.
Don't even look at it. Just enjoy the sustain.

And this low pressure switch: It would be by the firewall? With two
wires?

As previously stated, it is called a dual pressure switch and yes and
yes.

There is one set of fuses by the drivers' left leg. Is that the only set
on
the drivers side?

Probably.

I'll check under the glove box again, but I did look, and nothing was
clear,
like the cover on the driver's side.

BEHIND THE RIGHT SIDE KICK PANEL.

The MG thing is under the hood, clearly labeled on a fuse block. What
does
MG stand for? Is that what they mean by heater/A/C circuit breaker, or is
this elsewhere?

MG is Toyota's term for A/C clutch relay.

I'm assuming that if something just goes out after a fender bender, it's
electrical. Reasonable?

As reasonable as assuming that a component was jarred hard enough to
crack and lose all refrigerant.

------------------------------------------
That's as far as I go without an exact make, model, year, and engine.
I can help -given that info- during normal work hours.

-----------------


Bless you.
I'll try and get this info, but hopefully I'll make some headway with the
above.

What I'm going to do first is pull that wire from the compressor, and see if
it is energized, with the car (presumably) calling for A/C.

1. If it IS energized (with no jump on the pressure switch), then I know I
have either a bad clutch or a bad compressor.
2. If it's not energized, then I know the problem is further upstream
someplace.
3. If I then find the pressure switch, jump it out, and this wire becomes
energized, I'll have two choices:
a) bad pressure switch, or b) loss of refrigerant,
I'll be able to distinguish which by seeing if cold air blows or not.

4. If I jump the pressure switch, and this wire is not energized, then
presumably there is still an electrical problem further upstream, possibly
the A/C switch itself on the dash. That's a pita.... Hopefully it'll be a
fuse or that MG relay.
And,
5. I could always run a jumper from the battery to the clutch, see what
happens.

Good so far?

A lot of this depends on being able to tell if the compressor is actually
engaged or not!
I can tell if I hear it go on and off, but how would I tell the state if
it's *always* on, or always off??
Sorta not easy to tell (for an amateur) with all the engine noise, etc.

One more dumb Q:
What exactly is a kick plate??

Thanks again.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
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entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs




Toyota MDT in MO


.

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