Re: TRANSMISSION SLIPS ONLY WHEN CAR IS COLD!!!




<newjerseydevilsrock2000@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1174350160.169379.127310@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

there is 115k on the transmission. I just changed the fluid a couple
of days ago. I got the used and it had 103k on it so not sure when
it
was change before that. But why does it only slip when it is cold?
Also could it be the Torque Converter?

It is not likely to be the torque converter.

As to why it only slips when cold -there are several possibilities

1) When the transmission is cold the parts are at their minimum
dimensions. More fluid may leak past seals, etc. leading to low line
pressures. At the lower pressure the bands/clutches don't properly
engage. As the transmission warms up, internal parts expand, reducing
clearances and this restores normal operation - or at least seems to.
It might be the pressure is still reduced and some slippage is still
present, just not enough to be noticeable.
2) When the transmission is cold seals are hard and don't seal as
well - pretty much the same scenario as above. As the transmission
heats up, the seals become more flexible and do a better job of
sealing the components.
3) Old degraded fluid (i.e., varnish) is contaminating the walls of
the actuators. When everything is cold, the actuators are sluggish,
and don't provide proper pressure on the bands/clutches. This leads to
slippage
4) Internal transmission passages are restricted by old degraded fluid
This restricts fluid flow (and increase the pressure drop). When the
transmission fluid is cold it is more viscous, so the pressure drop
through the restricted passages is greater resulting in reduced
pressure on clutches/bands which allows slippage. As the fluid heats
up, the viscosity decreases and fluid flow increases (and the pressure
drop is less) resulting in normal operation.
5) The internal parts are so worn that clearances when cold are great
enough to prevent proper engagement of the bands/clutches. As parts
heat up, they expand, reducing clearances, which allows normal
operation.
6) A combination of all of the above.

Since you bought the car used, with over 100k miles it is entirely
possible the fluid was never changed. Changing it so late in the game
might not do any good - particularly if the transmission has been
slipping for awhile.

Once an automatic starts slipping it is not going to last long.
Slipping increases the wear on the bands/clutches and mating surfaces
and generates a lot of additional heat. Slipping "burns" fluid which
can further clog internal passages and interfere with the operation of
the actuators. It is a viscous circle. Slipping leads to more slipping
and eventually to complete transmission failure.

If you are looking for a miracle you can try a couple of things - 1)
Pay for a complete transmission flush. This might open up clogged
passages and allow normal operation, or it might remove the crud that
is actually the only thing left allowing your transmission to work at
all (definitely a crap shoot at this point). 2) Pour in one of the
many "fine" transmission additives on the shelf at your local auto
parts store (from companies like Lucas, Gunk, Bars, CD2, K&W, Prolong,
No Leak, CRC). Ordinarily I would not go near any of this stuff with a
ten foot pole, but it sounds like you are already 90% of the way
towards needing a new transmission. A miracle may be your last hope.
Here are a couple of the "miracle" additives available for a desperate
person -

http://www.autobarn.net/luc10009.html -Lucas Transmission Fix with ATF
Conditioner
http://www.autobarn.net/chm15-12.html - Gunk Transeal Automatic
Transmission Sealer

If you have faith, then the Lucas stuff sounds like the perfect "fix."
Personally, I think your only fix is going to be a used or rebuilt
transmission. If it was my car, I'd schedule an appointment with a
Honda dealer or a reputable independent transmission shop (check
around, there are lots of disreputable transmission shops out there).

Ed


.



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