Re: NOW: Fuel Pump Install...WAS: EGR VALVE! '87 Golf
- From: "the_lower_class_brat" <the_lower_class_brat@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: 1 Apr 2007 13:08:50 -0700
On Apr 1, 11:04 am, "the_lower_class_brat"
<the_lower_class_b...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On Apr 1, 10:19 am, "dave AKA vwdoc1" <vwd...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Beyond me samstone! lol
I ALWAYS check electrical components by powering them with an external power
source. This eliminates faulty wiring and insufficient power and then I can
conclude that the component is dead or alive. <g>
Many times the relay can click but may not complete the circuit and supply
power. These relays are known to fail. ;-)
I usually use a jumper wire after I remove the relay to supply power to the
fuel pumps.
One or two times that jumper wire gets really hot (not normal) and melts the
insulation so be careful.
<samst...@xxxxxxx> wrote in messagenews:460f8906.4883352@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 1 Apr 2007 00:12:44 -0700, "the_lower_class_brat"
<the_lower_class_b...@xxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
My relay clicks, but I get no noise from the pumps.
The clicking means the coil in the relay is getting
power through the key. ( terminals 15 and 31 on the relay).
This power is supplied through a different circuit than
the power that supplies power to the pumps
and fuel gauge. (terminals 30 and 87 on the relay )
So most likely the 20 amp. fuse has blown.
A great tool ( and a very low cost one to boot ) is a test light.
A socket and bulb from any junker car with a couple feet
of wire on each lead and two aligator clips works great.
Try the tester / tool : one lead to the neg. of the battery
the other to the pos. terminal of the battery. The bulb will
light up. Always do this check first so you KNOW the ' tool'
is good.
In your case here , with a test light you could SEE if power
is on the female terminal ( in the relay socket ) that correspondes
to the one big male terminal 30 on the relay with the relay pulled.
One lead of the test lamp to a good ground , and the other lead
of the test lamp to that female terminal in the relay socket will
light the bulb if the fuse is good ( the key does not have to be
in the run position for this test ). If the bulb doesn't light the fuse is
blown open. A good ground connection is a must. Let me know
if you don't know what a good ground means. I'll explain that if you
don't.
If the bulb does light with that test ( fuse is good ) then using the
test
light at the pumps wiring will tell you if the power is getting to the
pump
through the relay. Put that relay back in. Then at the pump connect
one lead of the test light to the ( green/black stripe ) wire and the
other
lead of the test light to (a good ground or the brown wire). Then turn
the key
to the ( run / on position ) and the test light should go on.
If the test light does light that tells you : power is getting to the
pump and the
pump is probably no good.
If the test light does not come on : the relay is not switching pump
power
through itself ( from 30 to 87 ) or the wiring has an open (
doubtful ).
DoctorDave , is this information beyond the KISS limits? ;-/
How do I make a jumper wire, jsut to test?
Woohoo! I got power to the pumps, now its just a question of it being
hooked up wrong because Im getting no fuel to the injectors. so far I
have the fuel filter going to one of the slots on the accumulator,
then the other one is going to the opening on the pump itself. then a
thin line going to a straight end on the side of the pump housing and
then I have the in and the out on the top of the pump housing (v shape
inserts). Im just mixed up about the how abouts of installing it with
the accumulator and all.
.
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