Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start

Ok followed all of the steps.

I have 12 volts on post 15.
I have 12 volts on post 1. (with the HT lead on, or off, with the
points, on or off, I still have 12v when the key is turned)

Points are opening and closing. Used light sand paper to clean them.

I changed the points, and the light stays on no matter what when the
key is engaged.

My tiny braided pigtail lead which grounds the advance plate, is not
broken. This is an 009. I tried with a complete stock dist too. same
results. The stock type spare dist has new points and condensor.

I tried also a new coil. Also new HT lead wire.

I have 2 wires on the post 15. Ones to the carb, and one from the
harness.
I have 1 wire on post 1, the points.

If I start the vehicle, no spark appears at the HD lead.
If I turn the key to on, and check the HD lead spaced from the ground,
while turning the engine by hand, no spark from the HD lead.

I tried starting with a battery charger booster, no effect. Put the
battery in my 74, started it right up. The battery is good.






Can something be shorting my new parts? Like my new points, new
condensors, new coils?



Nothing seems to be working out for me with this. I don't know what is
wrong.







On Apr 29, 11:54 am, "Bill Spiliotopoulos" <vsp...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Did you try to start it with the accelerator pedal pressed all the way down?
It may be flooded, or the idle cut-off solenoid not working, or the fuel
drained back to the tank.
Try to crank it for 10 seconds continuously with the accelerator pedal
pressed all the way in. Take a brake for a minute and try again.
If it won't start after 3-4 tries, check the following:

Electrical Related tests:
- 1) Check points gap and the ignition timing (it needs readjustment when
you replace points or distributors).
- 2) Check that the spark plug wires are connected in the correct order on
the distributor cap. To do this remove a Spark plug (eg #2) and rotate the
engine by hand until you can feel with your finger in the spark plug hole
pressure building up. This is the compression stroke. Remove distributor
cap, and verify that the wire for the Cylinder under test is connected to
the cap at the location the rotor points.
- 3) Check that the little carbon electrode in the center of the inside of
the distributor cap is in it's place.
- 4) Check Spark Strength. Remove Center HT Lead from the distributor cap,
pull back the protective rubber to uncover the metal terminal, and position
it near a grounded metal part of the engine (away from fuel / carb / pump)..
Usually it is possible to jam it between the bottom of the distributor body
and the timing adjustment clamp at the bottom of the distributor. Do not
short-circuit the High Voltage terminal, leave a small gap about 3mm between
the terminal and the grounded metal.  Now turn on the ignition switch, and
rotate the engine by hand. You should see a spark twice per turn of the
crank.
- 5) Check that the back-up light is wired correctly. It might be wired on
the points' side of the coil, greatly reducing the strength of the spark.

Fuel Related tests:
- 1) Verify you have fuel in the tank. The fuel gauge might be inaccurate.
- 2) Remove the cover of the carb to see if there is fuel in the carb's
bowl.  It should be full after all that cranking.
- 3) Verify that the electromagnetic cut-off solenoid (on the carb) clicks
every time you turn the ignition switch on or off. You should be able to
hear it from the drivers seat with the door and hood open. If it won't
click, the engine won't idle, so it won't start if you don't press the
accelerator pedal.

Regards,
Bill Spiliotopoulos,
'67 Bug.

"Andrew" <payments...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message

news:4261c3b4-5cce-44ca-8f44-d54c03b1d5b8@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Apr 28, 7:07 pm, Andrew <payments...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:





Thanks everybody, still no luck. I went threw your page Speedy Jim,
and I am getting worse off as I go for some reason. Here's what I have
now: Good compression. Good voltage on the left terminal when the key
is engaged, also the right terminal of the coil. If I pull off the
wire from the coil leading to the dist cap.. I get no spark now.
Before I had spark while the engine was trying to start, it
electricuted me.. now nothing. No spark from that, no spark from the
plug wires.. I have tried different coils.. different points.. and
different condesors.. heck I even tried a set of compufire point
elimination device. I have tried different distributors.. dist caps..
and rotors.. I am getting voltage to the coil, just not on the one
spark plug wire from the coild to cap now. Yes, I have tried 3 coils..
2 brand new ones (Bosch blue, and an off brand). I even switched back
to the OG voltage regulator.. here's what really happened.

I noticed the PO had the voltage regulator on the shroud. It fell off.
I parked the vehicle fine. Backed it into the driveway. Next day,
would not start.. so being the regulator fell off, might have shorted
something.. I took the regulator from my 69.. still no luck. At that
time I had spark off the coil to the dist cap.. now nothing.. not even
with the OG regulator. I dont understand how the wires to the coil are
getting voltage, the coils are new.. but they wont produce voltage to
the dist cap now. Ever seen this before?

Thanks!!!

On Apr 25, 5:23 pm, Andrew <payments...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello - Dissapointed with this one.. I have a 1960 Bug, converted to
12v. All new wiring, and it has an AK 1600cc.. So probably around
1971. Runs great. Never had a problem in 2 years. I put it in reverse
and parked it 3 days ago. Just got a license plate to take it down the
road, since it sat without a plate for 3 months, was excited.. It
wouldn't start.

It has to be something easy, as I have checked almost everything. I
changed the points, condesor, coil.. got shocked on the coil, so it is
putting out volts. I don't have anyone here to turn the engine over
while I check a plug wire to see if it is putting out volts. Changed
the distributor even with one with new components, changed the voltage
regulator. I was trying everything as I had these parts around, to get
it running this evening. I even put gas in the carb, pulled all the
plugs.. I can't figure it out. None of my fuses appear bad, checked
them.

Anyone ever have this problem, is their a fuse somewhere that may be
the problem? The car does turn over, the battery is charged.. I even
put the booster amp charge on it while trying to start.

Thanks.. And BTW, I only have about 9 fuses, 2 blocks under the front
hood. They are pill like fuses.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok, things I forgot to mention. I checked all the spark plugs, etc.
Cleaned them off, they looked fine. No oil or gas on them. No voltage
is even getting to them.. fuel is fine, I can even smell it. I even
poured some in the carb before trying to run incase. It is not even
trying to run. It turns over great, just no attempt to fire. When I
first posted, it tried a couple of seconds to fire.. since then
nothing.. I tried to start it in first gear, and it engaged and
moved.. so I must be missing a safety switch/relay for the tranny?
That's a different story, unrelated to this?? I can work on that
later.

Do I need to post pictures of the wiring?? It had some loose wires
from years ago when I bought it. No horn. They were bare, so I taped
them up. It ran fine, and never had a problem like this, untill this
week. Like I say it is a 1960, but rewired.. It has semaphores, and a
1600cc DP.. Only thing that I ever had to change was the idle cut off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start
    ... Check that the spark plug wires are connected in the correct order on the distributor cap. ... Remove distributor cap, and verify that the wire for the Cylinder under test is connected to the cap at the location the rotor points. ... Do not short-circuit the High Voltage terminal, leave a small gap about 3mm between the terminal and the grounded metal. ... It might be wired on the points' side of the coil, greatly reducing the strength of the spark. ...
    (rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled)
  • Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start
    ... I can't get the plug wires to spark. ... I tried also a new coil. ... I have 1 wire on post 1, ... the distributor cap. ...
    (rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled)
  • Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start
    ... I tried also a new coil. ... Also new HT lead wire. ... no spark appears at the HD lead. ... the distributor cap. ...
    (rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled)
  • Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start
    ... Installed that, bought a new cap, ... As long as you have a fat blue spark from the HT lead, ... I can't get the plug wires to spark. ... the points' side of the coil, greatly reducing the strength of the spark. ...
    (rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled)
  • Re: 1971 Engine Wont Start
    ... Post #1 on the Coil *must* switch from 12V to zero as the points close. ... Take a short wire and ground one end to the engine case. ... distributor. ... no spark appears at the HD lead. ...
    (rec.autos.makers.vw.aircooled)